Day 7: Chumphon - Sawi - Frankie goes to.....the Gulf of Thailand (2022)

January 14, 2022

Day 7: Chumphon - Sawi

"Only 47 kilometers, Frank?" Careful what you say! If you would have to pedal a bike with the width of a container ship against a headwind as fierce as.... I think I am getting a bit carried away but I am sitting here on the balcony of my bungalow in Sawi and keep my fingers crossed I can keep my eyes open until the sun sets. It´s been that difficult, honestly!

But as weird as it sounds: I still enjoyed it. Thoroughly! Despite that headwind and the other big disappointment I had to deal with. My first and only choice when it comes to staying south of Chumphon is with my friends Peed and Go Ma who run the Nakoarimlay homestay in Ban Tong Tom and we have been been close friends for many years now. So after all the Covid delays I decided to surprise them with my visit and only called last night from the hotel in Chumphon. Only to learn they are spending the weekend up in Bangkok....

Never mind, the cycling when leaving Chumphon to the South makes up for any other setback and is still one of my favourites. Entirely different to the waterfront delights south of Ban Krut but the #2018 in particular runs textbook South East Asia like through attractive rural settlements and dense vegetation, coconut palms in particular. With the current strong winds in particular it gives you a touch more shelter as well - best of both worlds.

I always adoreed stopping for local people going after their business and get always granted photo permission. I guess they consider me being "at work" too when they see the size of the bike. Down here part of the regular workforce are the trained monkeys though. I love observing them while drilling of the coconuts but in 9 out of 10 cases their owners do suggest not to come anywhere close to them. They are aggressive and do jump towards you! This time I was fortunate though and found one gentleman who was more than happy to let me have my photo.

Once the #2018 makes that 90 degree right turn back towards the highway, google maps indicates there is a small track running right along the railway track dwon to connect with the #2010, but there is one reason that is even more attractive to me than a good track. Good food! For several years I have been having my lunch at the Ban Roi Kao Thai Curries restaurant along the #41. On the photo it does possibly look like any other plate of curries but I simply love stopping there for a meal. And it adds only 5 km along the highway in total anyway.

The start of the #2010 is very obvious as it is right opposite the huge Buddha statue on the right. Not as exciting as the #2018 further North it does improve later on and I adore riding along here almost as much. Normally I turn off to the coast to visit my friends but this time I kept ging stratight down to Sawi, the provincial capital and got myself a nice bungalow at the Palm View Resort. A bit south of town but I like the green setup of the resort and I can get always some food in the vicinity and enjoy my afternoon/evening on the elevated terraces.

In Thailand I hardly book my rooms with breakfast. You will always find something better on your way out of town. Like this kwoi tiau ruea in Chumphon. Let me take the opportunity to explain the complex noodle soup issue. Kwoi tiau means noodle soup in general but you have to be more precise. Firstly what noodles: Wun sen (vermicelli), sen lek (thin) or sen yai (wide) all rice noodles. Prefer egg noodles? That´s kwoi tiau bamee. What meat? Moo is pork, nuea is beef, gai is chicken. Seafood is talay.... Over? No! My favourite (as in the picture) is the dark broth, called ruea (boat). It´s a philosophy not a soup!!!!

While the last few days the photos have been all about beaches, this is coconut country.....

I spoke to these guys and they are expected to split 1000 coconuts a day. Each!

That´s a smelly business, separating the flesh from the mussels

Taken next to a big retaining wall building site at the Chumphon River. Sustainable scaffolding, a common thing all over SEA

Multitasking macaque monkey. I think I was safe from any attacks as he was busy picking his masters lice....

My lunch. Two curries and some wun sen gai (chicken vermicelli). The selection of greens on the side are predominantly there to kill the heat of the curries....

One of the various bridges along the #2010...

Different colours providing the shade at one of my many drink stops

My 550 Baht bungalow at the Palm View Resort in Sawi. Nice terrace in particular!

Today's ride: 47 km (29 miles)
Total: 470 km (292 miles)

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Bruce LellmanGreat photos. But you are killing me with the food photos! So envious.
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2 years ago

Frank RoettgenYou know it all, Bruce! You stop at this almost neglected looking place in the middle of nowhere and they will surprise you with one of the best meals ever. For 40 Baht. I love it!
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2 years ago