Day 20: Mukdahan - Khemmarat - Frankie goes to.....Indochina

January 8, 2017

Day 20: Mukdahan - Khemmarat

Routing: #2034, 2242, 202

One of those days you wish they would never end. Because the scenery was so fantastic? No. The people and food on the way made it! Waking up in the morning I was really surprised how good I felt. Last night I had stopped taking my medication as I feel the cough has finally gone; I took some charcoal tablets as adivsed by a Canadian Diarrhoe expert plus I had some western food (burger and chips) in the attractive food market right next to the hotel. Whatever did the trick - it worked. The conditions on today´s route were good but not easy as it hasn´t been all the way getting down here. That rolling terrain requires immense input of energy but with my improving fitness I can almost enjoy it. When I left Mukdahan I had three options regarding my destination for tonight: Don Tan 35 km from Mukdahan; Chanuman another 15 km down the road or Khemmarat where I had stayed in 2012 and immensly enjoyed it. My legs worked very well so I made it all the way into Khemmarat before 3 pm despite the moderate headwind from that remaining southeasterly trough.

The highlight of the ride was my lunch stop at the Don Tan market right along the highway though. I had a look at the various food stalls and chose the most friendly lady who didn´t speak any English but confirmed she had Khao Mun Gai, chicken on rice. When I had finished eating I walked over to pay and saw her preparing a dish that looked very appetizing but I didn´t know yet. Sliced crunchy pork with some sort of kale. I thought it was Pak Choi but the crowd that had gathered by then told me the vegetable is called Kanah and the whole dish Pad Pak Kana Moo Krob. Extremely delicious and I still can´t believe I have been cycling in Thailand so many times and never had it before!

As if that hadn´t already made my day I would later find the most peculiar accommodation I have stayed at so far! Coming into Khemmarat I went straight to the bungalow resort where I had stayed in 2012. Gone! There are rooms right next to it but neither the patrons nor the cages themselves were very inviting. So I rolled down to the eastern end of town and just before I came to the Mekong River Resort an elderly couple on the right flagged me down: "Homestay!" - Why not? They run a little shop too so despite being a bit out of town there was anything I needed as the resort would certainly do some hot food. I parked my bike and absolutely loved the couple from the start. The husband can hardly hear anymore but is quite happy with it encouraging anybody to yell at him. He then proudly presented me the two advertising banners he has been starring in. After the mandatory photo session (which he requested!) his wife took me to what I thought would be my room. It was a whole house! I love being here!

The only flat bit of the day along the #2034

When you see this photo you might say: And? I understand it is not a very exciting pic but that´s what I got to see basically all day and I didn´t mind at all. It´s that peaceful rural scenery I can´t get enough of

When I had my shower in the morning I thought the complimentary shower gel had some buffalo odour in it and the little calf confirmed that

And here it is, my new all time favourite: Pad Pak Kana Moo Krob (Thank you Andrew and Bruce for the clarification. I just searched the internet and found that spelling which should be helpful for English and German speakers)

And that´s the lady who will cook it for you if you will ever make it to Don Tan. Her stall is the third one on the northern flank of the market (or the Mukdahan side)

Not so good news for anybody who will be cycling the Isaan after me. The sugar cane harvest has started which will result in the shoulders being littered with pieces of cane soon plus all the slow trucks taking the canes to the factories

Along the #2242. This is trying to visualize how steep some of those bumps can be. I had to park the bike sidewise otherwise it would have rolled towards me

I love this one! And Queen Sirikit seems to be proud of her tributary too

But he had even more great banners in store for me....

....wit this being his latest creation. He was delighted with the name he had found for their homestay! So Hello from Happiness Land

Although it only comes with shared bathroom

Today's ride: 88 km (55 miles)
Total: 1,621 km (1,007 miles)

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