May 17, 2023
Les Cabannes - Cazals
We enjoy our breakfast in a unique dining room. The floor is made of large stone slabs, the walls original stone and to one side is a well! Yes, a real well that you can look down into and see water. The place has been furnished elegantly with many personal touches. After years of work and living here for 13 years, our hosts will be moving back to the Netherlands. They have grandchildren that they want to be close to and the upkeep of their inn has beome too much work as they age. They are sad to move and aren't sure when they will find a buyer soon, but they see no other choice. I take pictures and they come to the door to say good-bye. This was an enjoyable encounter for all of us I think.
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We cross the Cérou River and begin to climb almost immediately. The countryside is peaceful farming country, not stunning (yet) but a pleasure to ride through. We top the first climb and have a steep decent, the kind I don't like too much, a real brake-clutcher.
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| Heart | 5 | Comment | 1 | Link |
10 months ago
We hae booked a room in a very small town for the night and none too soon we are beginning to wonder if there will be any restaurants near by. A quick google check confirms our doubts. Janos finds a supermarket just before we start on the last stretch of the day where there will be no more towns.
The highlight of the day is now coming up. Janos planned this route with the Gorges de l'Aveyron in mind. We have been following the river for quite a while now, and while it is nice cycling I'm a bit disappointed. As far as gorges go, it hasn't been very impressive, just some limestone cliffs away in the distance. It isn't until the last ten kilometers and the last climb that we are treated to these stone formations up close and views of the valley. Here we also change our direction and for the first time today have a tailwind - yoohoo!
As I aleady mentioned, for the night we are in a small village and again in a traditional stone house that has been fixed up, this time by a native of the village, Denise. Everything in the little ground floor apartment has been prepared for our arrival with loving attention to detail. Roses and peonies in a vase from the garden, coffee and tea and some chocolates welcome us. The room is simple, but has been furnishsed with care. Denise, a gentle soul, shows us around, to the back of the house is a garden filled with different varieties of roses. She leads us the one with the strongest perfume. We are also invited to use her "room of quiet" at the end of the garden. A signs asks you to leave your shoes and preconceptions outside the door. Inside I find an altar, carpet and bells used in eastern meditation, an oasis of peace.
Our room is charming and it is also very cold within these old stone walls. We have our cold meal, I even bought a small bottle of wine, but it takes a long time under the covers for me to stop shivering.
Today's ride: 35 km (22 miles)
Total: 541 km (336 miles)
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11 months ago