Day ride from Rochefort

May 23, 2019

I set out this morning to see three things and I accomplished that plus more. First up was the Pont Transbordeur or transporter bridge that used to run (and will again) between Rochefort and Échillais. It doesn't run now because it is closed for a very major restoration. A minor restoration had been done some time ago, but then a storm caused some damage to one of the anchors. Hence the full closure and major work since this is a historic monument. It should open again next year.

The Pont Transbordeur with the big scary highway bridge beyond.

Fairly close to the Pont Transbordeur is a river ferry that takes passengers and bikes. It doesn't run all day or every day, which is why La Vélodyssée makes such a detour. The only other bridge in the area is a giant highway bridge that I would not want to attempt on a bicycle.

Once on the other side, it was easy to find my way down to the Citadelle de Brouage. The city was originally a salt trading centre but became a "Ville Royale" and was transformed by Cardinal Richelieu into a fortress. It was also the birthplace of Samuel de Champlain. Now it's an tourism and artist/artisan village with no harbour anymore as the sea has retreated.

The bike route after leaving the ferry landing

One of the guard towers, Citadelle de Brouage

View from the wall adjacent to the guard tower.

Salt was used in vast quantities to preserve foods

I didn't know Samuel de Champlain was born here!

I didn't pay the 5€ to go in. I was ready to move on.

I thought it would be straightforward to get from Brouage to my next goal, Trizay. I searched Garmin and it told me to backtrack to Moëze, turn right, and bear right at St-Agnant. Not so fast!

The first part, backtracking to Moëze, was easy. Coming into the village, there were lots of signs for a "boulangerie-bar" so I guessed it might be open and it was. Sandwiches there are made-to-order so I asked for a cheese one. The other options were ham (two types at different prices) or pâté. It was the best cheese sandwich I've ever had! Three kinds of cheese (chèvre, Camembert, and gruyère) on a truly delicious "pain sandwiche". I ate too much because it was so very good, but I couldn't quite finish it.

I went back to the intersection with the sign for Beauguay, which I should pass on the way to Trizay. I turned that way and Garmin was upset, so I ignored it and carried on. I could see its track, off to my right, so when I came to an unmarked intersection, with a bike route sign to continue straight while the main road bore left, I continued straight.

It was a wonderful ride on a country track, through fields and waterways. The waterways weren't natural; they looked like they were dug to drain the land to make it suitable for pasture. I startled herons and at least one water dweller that made a large plop as it escaped into the water. Much bigger than a frog! There were some cows in the pastures but I saw nobody else at all.

I thought I'd better take a photo before I found myself back in the modern world

Looking at my track later, I see that I was on the skinny white road that loops to the southwest, the scenic route, shall we say. Referring again to the map, I see I could have taken a road from Brouage and through Les Écluses instead. However, it was a wonderful part of the day!

Back on track, after an initial wrong turn at Beauguay, I followed D125 under the big highway that leads to the big bridge and found myself in St-Agnant. Garmin told me where to turn left and from that road, I could see La Vélodyssée running parallel. I considered taking one of the small breaks to it, but Garmin actually had me on a quiet paved road so I didn't. The routes diverged, but a km or so later, Garmin said turn left and put me on La Vélodyssée!

Finding the Abbaye de Trizay wasn't difficult and I paid the 5€ to visit. The price was a little high, probably reflecting the cost of the relatively recent restoration. It was well done, and as with many old buildings, there is a room used as an art gallery. There is also a hostel (auberge), though a school group appears to have it occupied tonight.

Only 3 partial walls are left of the original octagonal church. The chancel was walled off after the building's destruction (during the Wars of Religion) to create a parish church.

Although it's now called the Abbaye de Trizay, it was actually a priory, under the control of a powerful abbey in Auvergne.

An original column capital now enclosed in the wall. Apparently the "smiling lion" was a common motif in the Poitiers region.

The refectory walls were decorated with frescoes, including this one of a Roman god.

Another fresco. Apparently the banner says (in Latin) something like "don't tempt me"

Photo of a photo of the exterior wall of the chapter house around 1900

The exterior wall of the chapter house after restoration.

The interior of the chapter house with its beautiful vaulting. This has been completely restored. The priory buildings that were still standing, except for the chancel-cum parish church, were used as a farm for many years. In the 1920s, the then-farmer attempted to remove the two columns to use the chapter house as a barn. Most of the ceiling collapsed.

I got back to Échillais with over an hour to wait since the ferry didn't resume service until 1715--and only until 1830. A French tourer arrived and he had a huge load, including a medium-sized dog, whom he clearly loved. He was from Bordeaux, heading for Ireland (I think!)

It was entertaining watching Clément manoeuvre his long rig onto the small ferry and off again, especially off since the dock was a good foot above the deck of the ferry. At least the tide had come in while we waited so the ramp wasn't as steep. It had been extremely steep when we arrived to wait. Maybe that's why the ferry hours are so odd?

There's an exhibition of sculpture near both ends of the Pont Transbordeur. This tightrope walker was my favourite, on the south side.

The big rig on the little ferry. Clément put a harness on his dog and she helped pull it up the ramp when they disembarked.

I gave Clément directions to the campground and set off. He's actually slower than me! (You can follow him, in French, on Facebook. His blog is called "Un chien pour un rêve".)

I had hoped to go to a nearby restaurant tonight that is supposed to be good. It's closed Wednesday evenings so I had to go elsewhere last night, but unfortunately there was an unscheduled closure tonight. So I went to La Route des Épices. No salads, just two fixed-price menus. I opted for the cheaper one.

When the server brought me four tiny toasts and a little jar of green spread, I wondered what I'd chosen. It turned out that this was an amuse-bouche and the actual entrée was much better. The "assortiment croquant" included a small shrimp roll, a veggie roll, and two small chicken strips with the promised "sauce carotte" and a bit of salad.

For the plat, I'd chosen "tartare de saumon" and wondered what I'd get. Yup, raw salmon. It was cut in tiny pieces, spiced, and moulded with avocado and was rather tasty. Good thing I like sushi! I wouldn't have dared order this if I didn't. It came with "frites maison" which were just okay, and more salad. Dessert was extra so I resisted.

Back to my tent in full daylight, even though it was almost 2100!

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Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 1,204 km (748 miles)

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