Torreira to Figueira da Foz

October 27, 2021

Today was bookended by great riding with a long stretch of unpleasant in the middle.

An early start to catch the 9:30am ferry meant missing the hotel breakfast but riding in the glow of morning light -and almost no traffic- into San Jacinto. Trying to get warm, we zoomed along and arrived with lots of time to re-visit the port-side bakery for coffees and pastries.

Crossing into Aviero we rode through a vast, industrial port loading the usual containers as well as the enormous blades for generating windmills. Soon we were on a well signed and paved bike path heading south, but as is often the case case in Portugal, just as quickly, the trail suddenly ended and we were on an unmarked dirt road. Still it was a peaceful ride alongside the narrowing lagoon for 20 km.

The GPS route then showed us going through the middle of the Reserve de Dunas de Mira, which we expected to be a beautiful pine forest with a decent bike path. Economic progress had come to the reserve and the forest is being clear cut, leaving an ugly blight and very bumpy roadway. Re-routing to the main road was 30 km of fast and smooth, but lots of trucks zooming by.

Tired of the traffic, we cut back to the water at the beach town of Quiaios and opted for the more challenging coast track. More than once we checked the GPS to be sure it was the route, and still wondered if the road was about to drop off into the sea, but after some incredible vistas up and down the coast, we came to the lighthouse, and then a real road, and then we were sailing down into Figueira. This town is spread along a huge beach and was one of Portugal's première resort towns in the 1950s and 60s. After a long day of riding (92km) we skipped the swim and were glad to shower, eat and sleep.

Brightly coloured fishing boats in the morning sub. Although we saw these only on the calm, lagoon side, we did see a painting of them launching into big waves on a beach, making sense of the high prow.

South of Aveiro the trail was a bit rough but we liked riding beside the narrow lagoon

Someone had set up a table in their little tree plantation, perfect for a lunch break.

Climbing up from the beach town at Quiaios. Behind is 30km of empty beach along the Réserva Dunas de Mira. Sadly, the reserve with the bike trail through the middle, which we planned to ride, is being clear cut logged leaving a horrible road and view.

We had a choice: through the gap in the fence and over the rockfall or back way around the headland: we "took the road less travelled by and that has made all the difference" Thanks to RF.

Pushing our bikes, wary of being distracted by the view and nervous of the unprotected drop.

At last we re-joined the road at the lighthouse point.

Abandoned cement works along this otherwise pristine coast.

Finally, pavement to coast down into Figueira da Foz

Now it is a long walk out to the beach, but we were told the waves used to lap against the sea wall just by the road, until a big breakwater was built to protect the harbour which then trapped the sand, extending the beach.

Off season at the Hotel Alianca was one of our cheapest stays yet, but had a most impressive row of ironed and monogrammed towels.

Today's ride: 93 km (58 miles)
Total: 2,145 km (1,332 miles)

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Rachael AndersonWow, you had a very long day especially considering all the rough road! You are tough!
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2 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyThanks, Rachel, especially coming from you, the gal we admire, who bikes 41 milers and churns out 13 mile hikes!
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2 years ago

Brent IrvineGood morning. I'm not sure if you noticed, but I am planning an EV1 tour from Porto to Lisbon in the spring. Reading this entry had me pause. Would you say that the coastal route is generally great or good or mediocre or poor? I was further inland when in 2003 from OPO to LIS and I loved it, as with other routes I have cycled in Portugal (loved). I know some spots will be industrial and icky but if that is only occasional that is one thing, but if endlessly like North American suburbia that is something else!
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2 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyHi Brent,

Overall I would say the coastal route is great, but be prepared for some crappy sections and for poor signage. Porto to Aveiro was 90% delightful. Aveiro to Figueira was about 50% great and even the road sections have numerous towns that are far more interesting than suburban America. The Eurovelo here has no signs, unlike in France, so we rely on our Rides with GPS routes and re-route when needed.
We shall see what the next sections to Lisbon are like.
Steve and Ann
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2 years ago