Saint Emilion to Creon - Livin' the Dream: France to Portugal 2021 - CycleBlaze

September 16, 2021

Saint Emilion to Creon

Grateful for cycle days free of rain, for braving local specialties - eels and desserts - and for downhill runs that seem to go for ever.


We departed at 11am after bidding good bye to our charming host, Jocelyne.  If you are looking for a place in Saint Emilion, we recommend Les Oiseaux.  We loved the central location, the cute French patio under an arbour, the comfortable bed and her unique welcoming gift: she invited us to open a jar of her homemade jam and then take the rest with us.  We had a hard time choosing but went with her plum jam which is delicious on fresh baguettes and croissants in the morning. 

The heavy cloud hanging over Saint Emilion matched our mood as we packed up and left this beautiful place.  But soon the clouds began to thin, the sky and our sprits brightened and it felt good to be on the road again for a fabulous 12 km downhill cruise through vineyards.  We crossed the Dordogne River at the town of Branne, then started to climb once again.  

The Bordeaux part of France is obviously popular with cyclists.  Stopped to catch our breath on a hilltop, we chatted with two men from Holland on their first cycle tour travelling to Santiago de Compostela.  It is encouraging to see other groups of one or two, as it gives us reassurance that we are not the only ones choosing this slow mode of travel. 

Today was an easy cycle day.  We are taking two days to ride to Bordeaux where we have booked into an apartment-hotel for three nights.  After our comfy three days in Saint Emilion we feel that we probably should rough it one night in the tent before we forget how.

After a quick 30 km we stopped for lunch at a Crêperie.  Steve was brave and had the local specialty, crepe with eels in a cream sauce!   We split a dessert crepe with salty caramel ice cream and chantilly whipped cream, and then wobbled the short 5 km to the campground.

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Crossing the Dordogne.
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River flooding is evidence of the heavy rains that thankfully missed us.
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Hard to choose.
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Today's ride: 35 km (22 miles)
Total: 661 km (410 miles)

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bill wearyGlad I missed the eels!
Wonderfully written travelogue
so interesting and beautiful pictures
thank you so much
J has now taught us how to comment - watch out!!!!
xxx mom and dad
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2 years ago
Margaret Anne CameronThink you should enjoy indoors at nite as often as you can. Say the outdoors for the daytime lol!
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2 years ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Margaret Anne CameronYes I agree. However we have tonight and tomorrow night planned for the tent, of course always depending on the rain and then we think we will splurge for two nights in Biarritz. Hope it works out!
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2 years ago