Hondarribia to San Sebastien - Livin' the Dream: France to Portugal 2021 - CycleBlaze

October 2, 2021

Hondarribia to San Sebastien

Turning left out of the campground it began, the climb up the Jaizkibel Hiribidea. The practice tours in Cape Breton, NS last fall and earlier in the Charante region of France were a warm up for the west coast of Spain and it started here on the Jaizkibel -with 10 km straight up hill.  

After the first third we pulled into the Hermitage of Guadeloupe Church to admire the view and catch our breath.  Then the real spinning began, slowly cranking our way up.  Past the church there was little traffic and the ride was mostly peaceful with only the sounds of bells on cows or bleating sheep or grunting cycle partner.   Being Saturday morning there were many thin, spandex-clad men zipping by us going uphill and others flying down off the mountain.  Ann would like to note that we saw only one other woman cycling, who was younger, and not carrying any extra weight on her bike or body!

Oh the views, first back towards France across the Bidasoa River we had ferried over from Hendeye, then east of looking at the Pyrénées and finally west to the Bay of Biscay. Wow! 

Once we crested the pass at 455m and our rates returned to something like normal, we agreed that today has to be one of the top three rides of the trip, if not the best.  We are compiling a list and will add it to the blog soon. 

Coming off the mountain was bliss. Green and lush with the first glimpses of San Sebastián, warm winds and a temperature of 27C. 

We arrived at the old town of Pasai Donibane with its narrow cobblestone streets, arched passageways under houses built as early as the 16thC and made our way to the jetty to catch a five minute ferry across to Pasaia for the final 6 km into the centre of San Sebastián. 

We rode first to the Playa de la Zurriola, then on to the Playa de La Concha, past the magnificent Udal Nagusia Library.  SS is a real city yet with a pulsating beach vibe.  Being a gorgeous Saturday, the 5 km walkway along the Concha was teaming with walkers, cyclists and surfers. 

We found a taverna and nabbed a patio table for their lunchtime special before checking in to our two night stay at a central apart/hotel. 

After a rest and shower we headed out to stroll the old town of San Sebastián where apparently were the best pintxos (the Basque word for tapas) bars and restaurants.  It was a warm 24C and hopping with young and old spilling out around tables on pedestrian only alleyways.  We nabbed a table and ordered some pintxos: crab and mushroom croquettes, roasted turbot with pistachios, squid risotto and the house specialty, stuffed mussels.  Delicious, washed down with a couple of glasses of white wine while being mesmerized by the action happening all around us.  Home to bed after a perfect day.

View from Guadeloupe Church
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More uphill
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Looking back at the road and France in the background
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Jaizkibel pass. Altitude 455m. This was the big hill we could se from Biarritz!
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Karen Quinnhey , when you bike, it's called a mountain.!!
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2 years ago
Looking ahead along the Spanish Coast
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Pasai Donibane laneway
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Crossing the Santa Catalina bridge. The bike lanes can be tricky to figure out
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The municipal library was being used for wedding photos
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The beach at San Sebastián
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Pintxos on display
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Back across the Santa Catalina bridge at night
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Today's ride: 31 km (19 miles)
Total: 1,186 km (737 miles)

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Suzanne GibsonWow, what a marvelous day! And then those tapas!
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2 years ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Suzanne GibsonYes it was. Thank you for dropping us a note. We are enjoying your travels too. Fun to see you and Janos showing the Anderson’s your corner of world. Safe travels.
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2 years ago
Scott AndersonSo glad this day worked out for you two. I’ve been holding my breath about how you’d do. It’s such a spectacular ride.
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2 years ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Scott AndersonThanks Scott it was a spectacular day. We have sent our camping gear on to our hotel in Lisbon. With a lighter load maybe we will be able to emulate your ease in cresting hills in the days to come!
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2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo ann and steve maher-wearyI almost commented on that too. Smart move. I doubt you’ll regret it.
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2 years ago