Figueira da Foz to Coimbra

October 28, 2021

The rain is coming! Last night we debated what to do today. We had decided to cycle to Leira, spend the night then catch a train tomorrow to Coimbra. We booked a hotel room…. and then canceled it. Why cycle to Leira and catch a train, why not just ride to Coimbra? That seemed like the right thing to do, especially when we found a well-publicized bike route from Figueira da Foz to Coimbra.

This morning we glided down to the boardwalk for one more look at the Atlantic and Foz’s spectacular beach before heading south a couple of kms to the Mondego River, then turning inland and basically riding beside the river all the way to Coimbra.

Well not quite all the way beside the river. Bike routes are all over the place in Portugal. We were along a perfect path, then dumped on to a road, then around a huge electrical generating station, then quasi paths beside canals, then beside a rowing centre until we came to Montemor-o-Velho, a town that just happens to have the ruins of an imposing castle perched on the top of it with the walls around the perimeter still perfectly intact.

Having done zero research on today’s ride, it was a treat to arrive here. We puffed up the hill to the medieval castle, stored our bikes and toured the grounds. Ann commented that the few cars in the parking lot all had Portuguese license plates so we must be the only Canadians here. You guessed it, there were about eight people on the site and the first person we spoke to was from Toronto!

It is amazing that you can climb on the walls which have 30 foot drop offs on the inside of the castle (never mind the outside drop offs) and there are no railings or guide wires.

Within the walls is the 12th C renaissance church, the Santa Maria de Alcacova, starkly beautiful with its solomo nic columns (check the photo) and altar.
After many photos and ohs and awes, we coasted back down the hill and continued on our way.

The last 20 kms to Coimbra were a cyclist’s dream, smooth pavement, good tailwind and the captivating sight of Coimbra splayed over the hillside as we drew ever closer. By now it was close to 3 pm and we were starving. We walked our bikes across the Santa Clara Bridge and into a pedestrian street, found the first restaurant serving a “Especial do dia” and sat down. It looks like Coimbra is going to be a great place to stay for a few days, even with the inclement weather forecast, there is lots to see and do- the oldest university in Portugal with its magnificent library, monasteries, convents, the cathedral and the Fado music scene to name a few.

A last look at the Figueira da Foz boardwalk.

An efficient if not always beautiful ride.

Hey, do you see that castle on the hill?

Built and fought over in the 11th - 14th centuries, and then re-fortified in the 17th, the castle is remarkably well preserved.

Elegant, light, spiral columns were part of the 16th C renovation of this 12th C chapel.

Students still wear gowns at the U of Coimbra, founded in 1290.

Even old universities have Frosh week antics

The old cathedral, just down the lane from our apartment.

Steve, re-living his university days, waiting for the library to open!

Today's ride: 51 km (32 miles)
Total: 2,196 km (1,364 miles)

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