Chaiten: Things looking brighter

January 7, 2018

We got started soon after nine o'clock not worrying too much about disturbing the young hikers who were hogging the shelter (and who kept us awake last night playing their guitars and cornets - Buena Vista Social Club done very badly). It was still raining but we had managed to pack the tent during a short dry spell.

Crossing the little bridge leading from the campsite to the road

The start was a rough climb for about ten kilometers, the steepness accentuated by the rough surface. We stopped in at the second campsite which was also pretty full so I am pleased we hadn't pushed onto there last night. After that it was a downhill followed by another climb until the twenty kilometer mark. Here we stopped at a refugio for about forty minutes because the sun had come out! We spread our wet things out to dry and ate the last of our food. We are going to have to learn to stock up properly because we were at risk of getting hungry again today.

With all the rain, it has been difficult to take in all the beauty of Patagonia but with the clouds lifting it started to reveal itself. It is a truly a visual spectacle, so different to anything I have ever seen.

Chaiten's volcano erupted in 2008, leaving much of the area and most of the town in ruins.

From here to Santa Barbaroza it was predominantly downhill and we made up good time. We stopped at a little mercado at Santa Barbaroza for a cooldrink and some little cakes which revived us for the climb that lay between us and Chaiten.

The roads are slowly but steadily being changed from ripio to asphalto

Upon arrival in Chaiten we spied a cycling couple sitting outside the information centre (which was closed). They were French and heading in the same direction as us with similar plans and attitudes. They suggested we get our tickets for the ferry before sorting out our accommodation, which we did. Because of a terrible landslide at Santa Lucia about three weeks ago, the road to Coyhaique is closed and a ferry service has been provided as a detour. We're booked on the ferry for tomorrow night which leaves at eleven pm!

After that we found a hostal with a campsite. Hot showers, wifi and a kitchen - not very flash but all we need.

Today's ride: 61 km (38 miles)
Total: 209 km (130 miles)

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