Day 14: To Ernest Coe Visitor Centre and Back - Grampies Go to Florida Spring 2015 - CycleBlaze

February 16, 2015

Day 14: To Ernest Coe Visitor Centre and Back

Jim came up with both some blueberry pie and hard boiled eggs this morning. Although we did stock up quite bit for being down here, these supplements are sure nice.

Jim plus the blueberry pie!
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This time we set off all the way back to the entrance of the park, where they have the Ernest Coe Visitor Centre. Here we found more extensive displays about the "River of Grass" and the competing uses of water in South Florida, plus good descriptions and displays about the wild life. The book shop contains dozens of things we would buy if not for the weight, including books on the history of the region, and good stuff for the kids. Here we also found One Minute to Midnight", by Michael Dobbs. This is a current and definitive history of the Cuban missile crisis, recommended by Scott yesterday.

One of the most instructive of the displays showed the extent to which the Everglades have shrunk since 1870, and the now restricted flow of water out of Lake Okeechobee. When we get some better internet, you should find the illustration for this just below:

An illustration of the much reduced Everglades water flow since 1870. The remaining blue bits are the Shark and Taylor Sloughs. We will visit the Shark Valley later, cycling 15 km down into it from the Tamiami Trail.
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What the Glades where we are can look like in summer.
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What the Glades where we are look like right now in winter.
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We experienced quite differing levels of service at this Visitor Centre. On the one hand, we commented to the girl at the book/gift shop about the lack of price tags on very many things. This was met with absolutely supreme indifference. Clearly her high school teaches nothing of consumer rights or consumer theory. On the other hand, Dodie has gotten quite a severe sunburn on her lips. The shop has nothing to offer for this. But Brian, our ranger from yesterday - now on duty behind the desk - came up with his personal stick of SPF 15 lip balm. How's that for helpful!

We shifted now back south a bit, to the Royal Palms centre where we had been yesterday. We had missed out on the short "Gumbo Limbo" trail there yesterday, Once there, we again found no possible mobile data connection. This has plagued us the last few days, something you no doubt have noticed! It caused another type of problem too, since I inadvertedly erased yesterday's report, and of course never had uploaded it. So I sat at Royal Palms and wrote it again, not that I have been able to upload the new version either! We then walked the Gumbo Limbo trail, a pleasant stroll through the raised "hammock", and featuring the "gumbo limbo" trees, of course. What we saw should appear just below, sometime!

The most famous author about the Glades
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Sorry Sabrina - too heavy to carry right now, but maybe Amazon could deliver a copy.
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The definitive book about the Cuban Missile Crisis
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Lots of good books for kids
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We hope to see these at Flamingo, down by Florida Bay
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There are also many books available about local lore
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Khrushchev and Kennedy. Kennedy found him to be rough and unprincipled
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The Gar features in a mural at the visitor centre
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Periphyton is the base of the food chain here
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A wall mural depicts some of the famous wildlife here
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More local wildlife depicted on a mural
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This display dealt with all the competing interests in water around the Everglades. The point of view of the homeowner, vacationer, fisherman, farmer, conservationist, and ranger are all presented.
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Here you can see where we are, and where those two major sloughs are.
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A book about the python here
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Ranger Brian gave Dodie his own spf 15 lip balm - she had gotten a bad burn
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The Gumbo Limbo story
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The Gumbo Limbo trail
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Epiphytes
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Strangler fig
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Another tree snail
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Today's ride: 26 km (16 miles)
Total: 624 km (388 miles)

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