The camping was good here - very quiet. It was nice to have our own area and picnic table.
The canal is a study in contrasts - a pretty rural setting with cafes and villages along the way - and then you look up and you see a huge freighter or container ship coming around the corner. We feel tiny in comparison on our bike on a small track. The water traffic is fascinating. The family we met yesterday had stayed in a "Cyclist's Guesthouse" and we met them later along the canal. They were doing well and are planning to stop in Rendsburg.
Rendsburg offers a most unique way to cross the canal - the tunnel. What an unusual experience. They had provided escalators for the long trip down - most bikes used the escalator. But we were so relieved to see an elevator - large enough to fit about 8 bikes - so we were able to fit our tandem and trailer in the elevator car in one trip. In our travels around Europe, we have never been able to do this.
As you ride through the tunnel, the air is icy cold - a unique experience. We found Rendsburg to be an enchanting town with much character. The only downside was the Tourist Information Office. It is located at the back of a book store but it follows odd hours. This one closed at 2 pm and there were many bemused tourists looking for help. As this is the only Tourist Office in the city, the book store staff end up doing double duty as tour guides. We had been anxious to get information about getting to Denmark and to buy some books and maps. A most knowledgeable and helpful clerk, Ute, came to our rescue and showed us a route on secondary roads to make our way north. We had considered taking the Oocheson (Oxen) route north but she told us that it can be very sandy in parts as well as heavy gravel..so...the road it will be. We were surprised to leave Rendsburg and find rolling hills as we have become used to completely flat terrain. We enjoyed the fun of riding on the rolling hills and after a few hours of riding, we made it to Eckernforde on the Baltic Sea. By this time it was quite late and we were fortunate that some local people came up to us and asked us if we needed help. A couple got on their bikes and rode with us until they found us suitable and reasonably priced accommodation - a Pension near the water.
We are tired but have thoroughly enjoyed the variety of riding and scenery that the day has given us.
Klein Westerland - a good place to stop. Today was a short day of riding as the ferry left at 11 and we didn't disembark until close to 2 pm. A tip to remember about the ferry - it only runs 2 days a week - Tuesday and Thursday at 11 am. It returns to Cuxhaven at 8 am and 4 pm.
One of the many free ferries along the canal. They run constantly - very convenient as there is always a hotel or cafe at the ferry stop on the other side. There were no wait times at all.
We met the family again along the trail - the boy (aka spiderman) is having a good day pedalling behind his dad. We could hear him calling to us from a distance telling us to slow down and wait for them.
Ute, at the bookstore, was incredibly helpful and gave us a good cycling route to get to Denmark. She had lived in Toronto for a year and taken the train across Canada. Thanks, Ute for your generous assistance.
The bookstore had a coffee machine - fresh ground espresso, etc for 50 cents. Barry is considering taking it with us! We had a good laugh of the image of Barry taking a coffee machine on the stoker seat instead of me!
When we arrived in Eckernforde, we were very tired and unable to find accomodation. We had planned to camp about 10 km back, but it proved to be unsuitable so we decided to push on. While looking at the map in Rendsburg, a crowd gathered around us and were determined to help. This couple rode with us and made sure that we found an affordable and good place to stay. She came to the door of the Pension with me and told the owner what we needed. Incredible hospitality.
