Impressions of the Trip so Far: France, Spain, Ireland

I had intended to do a recap of the first part of our trip — southern France and Northern Spain — but we struggle enough with keeping up with the day to day that any summary winds up being an optional effort. I really find those recaps helpful when I read others so now I will give this a shot.

France: the Via Rhona.

We liked this ride from Lyon to Rochemaure. It was all on a Eurovelo route (with a few small variations) and even in late April we saw a fair amount of cycle tourists, so we know it’s popular. There is excellent signage, it’s easy to follow, there isn’t much elevation change and there are plenty of small towns and places to stay along the way. The local TER train that runs down the Rhône River valley and takes bicycles is a comforting back up plan in case of bad weather or illness. The only time the route was complicated was at the crossings of the Rhône River, where suddenly truck traffic became intense. Even those issues were somewhat our fault. If we had more diligently followed the precise Eurovelo route we might not have run into the same challenges. It would be a good ride for first time cycle tourers.

All the same, we didn't find the route to be signature. I doubt we will ride it again and would probably seek out a route through Provence (to the east) or through Ardeche (to the west). Via Rhona is a route to conveniently and easily allow cyclists to ride from the middle of France to southern France.

Favorite Accommodations on the Via Rhona: Hotel Restaurant La Désirade (a bit off the route in Saint-Désirate but worth the extra few km to get there, great country inn, good value, frog legs for dinner); Logis Hotel Médiéval (in Rochemaure, outside of Montélimar; good value in a small town, a little run-down but still nice enough for 71 euros without breakfast).

Least Favorite Accommodations: Mercure Valence Sud (outside of Valence; nice hotel but too far from the center and the dining near and in the hotel is dismal).

France: Provence, from Montélimar to Gordes and then to Toulouse

We veered off the Via Rhona at Montélimar so we could enjoy Provence, and were reminded again of how gobsmakingly beautiful it is. We love cycle touring in France and Provence is really the pinnacle; such great riding conditions, food and wine, beauty. It has it all. There is not much cycling infrastructure but it’s balanced out by many small, low-trafficked roads and polite drivers who accept cyclists as part of the scene. Dave climbed Mt. Ventoux and together we rode through the Gorges de la Nesque - a fun climb but very busy with cars and tourists. If you want to hang out with zillions of other cyclists, Bedoin and Sault are the places to be . They both service riders doing Mt. Ventoux and it is all about the bike in those two towns.

Signature Meal: Les Lavandes in Monieux

Signature Ride: Mt. Ventoux!

Favorite Accommodations: Chambré d’hote avec jacuzzi in Bedoin (booking.com, new, small room, and a little outside of town but the view was great with a charming patio and jacuzzi, ac, good value, lovely breakfast on the patio); Logis Auberge Relais outside of Orthez (out in the middle of nowhere but room was big and comfortable and they fed us even when the kitchen was closed, good value).

Least Favorite: Hotel d-Orsay in Toulouse-Matabria (budget place by the train station, and you get what you pay for, tiny room, gross carpet).

Hotel d’Orsay. That orange carpet was hiding a lot of dirt.

Northern Spain: Camino from Saint-Jean-Pied-du-Port to Logrono:

We just did a small part of the Camino Francés, which technically starts in Saint-Jean-Pied-du-Port. Unlike our experience with other Eurovelo routes, a lot more of this one is on gravel even when there were some very nice paved roads that covered the same territory. I groused about the gravel at the time but now with a month to reflect, I get it. I am sure the Eurovelo planers were trying to give cyclists the “pilgrim experience” and riding with the walking peregrinos is part of that.

Signature ride: Riding with the peregrinos on the gravel into Torres del Rio

Favorite accommodations: Maison Laurentzenia in Saint-Jean-Pied-du-Port (new, airy, ac, great tub); Casa Nahia Rural in Lorca (new, nice rooms, fun dining arrangements, good value); Vente de Ariata (out in the middle of nowhere but worth it, good value).

Dinner at Vente de Ariata, nowhere in particular but a great choice

Least Favorite accommodations: Hostal Rural San Andres in Torres del Rio (the real pilgrim budget experience except we had our own room, pilgrims are a dime a dozen here and they treated us that way, worst meal we had).

This meal really did taste like old leather, dinner at Hostal Rural San Andres, Torres

In general the quality of the accommodations on the Camino exceeded our expectations. While there were many, many budget hostels, dorms, and 1* places, if you do a little digging there are a sufficient number of nicer places for those of us past the dorm phase of our life.

Northern Spain: Rioja:

We loved this area, and would highly recommend it especially for those who dig the wine/food thing. There are a lot of really interesting accommodations and we found very good value in the inns, restaurants, and wine. Bilbao was easy to ride into from the south.

Signature rides: Balcon de la Rioja, Orduňa Pass

Favorite Accommodations: Los Agustinos in Haro (old revamped monastery); Maria Christina in San Sebastián (but at $800 a night it should be amazing; the hotel oozes history and charm); Hotel Saiaritz outside Amurrio (totally surprisingly lovely, new, good value, nice hosts)

Lovely Hotel Saiaritz outside of Amurrio

Least Favorite Accommodations: Hotel Castillo El Collada in LaGuardia (Hotel oozes charm but with bikes it was a challenge, many flights of stairs everywhere, and the restaurant served a rare forgettable meal and breakfasts were poor).

Ireland:

Of all the places we have visited by bike in Europe, I found Ireland the most difficult. The Eurovelo route from Rosslare Harbor to Cork (or the parts of that we were on) was the most car-trafficked Eurovelo route we have ever done. The Finney’s in their journal of Ireland reported something in the same vein. To be fair, I think there are just not that many choices of routes in Southern Ireland. Irish bike travel was further complicated by the speed limits on the roads (high) and the fact that Irish drivers pass fast and close. We hardly ever had a shoulder and the hedges directly adjacent to the road made getting a little elbow room on the edge of the road impossible. That being said, once we got used to it, it was okay, just not ideal or as relaxing as riding in Europe. We found the cycling infrastructure in the cities (Dublin, Waterford, Cork) decent - not as good as Germany or France, or other European cities - but far, far better than US cities.

As to Northern Ireland, for the three days we rode there, the riding was very good. The scenery on the stretch we did (between Dundalk outside Dublin to Belfast) was not as dramatic as Southern Ireland but the riding itself was pleasant and less stressful, with less traffic. We’d happily go back and explore more.

While we have found that big cities in general are not as engaging as the rural areas, both Dublin and Belfast were a hit with us.

The best thing about riding in Ireland is the people - they are so curious and friendly and generous such as David and Mary inviting us to their home.

Special dinner in Dublin: Lynn, Jill, Mary, Dave and Joe

Signature rides: Macroom to Glengarriff (overlooking Beara Peninsula), ride to Dingle, Caha Pass

Favorite accommodations: Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore ($550 per night but worth it, view and location were unique, 5* hotel but with a relaxed vibe that works for a cycle tourist with no dressy clothes).

View outside our window at Cliff House Hotel, Ardmore

Least Favorite accommodations: Davitt’s in Kenmare (up a zillion steps, shabby and not particularly charming)

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