July 8, 2025
Grantown-on-Spey to Kingussie
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We peeled out of Grantown-on-Spey around 10:45 am. The one set of panniers rented by Eric and Linda continue to give them trouble and its commonly a hassle to get them attached to the rack.
Our destination today was Kingussie. Komoot had planned to put us on a gravel trail after making our way out of Grantown but a quick inspection by Dave revealed it was a goat path so we opted to stay on the road, the B9710. It was very low traffic and a good choice. We passed the Castle Roy (of which I could find no info except it was from the Thirteenth Century and owned by the Comyn family).
It was an easy, uneventful ride until we reached a gravel trail late in the morning. Suddenly, there were a lot of cyclists (mostly day riders and families) and you could tell this was a popular recreational trail.
We followed it until we reached the outskirts of Aviemore and then rode into this bustling, touristy town through its industrial section. We were seeking the Aviemore Ring Circle and Cairn, a 4000 year old Neolithic site located in a housing development. When I looked up some information on it, a report by archeologists to the local council said it was an example of “how not to treat an archeological monument.” Apparently it used to sit in a wide open farmer’s field before Aviemore expanded. Its purpose was as a burial site and was used for religious activities.
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After gawking for a few minutes we made our way to Tiso, and its cafe, for lunch and a break. Aviemore is big enough, and outdoorsy enough, to support the large outdoor store we have enjoyed in both Glasgow and Perth. We picked it because we like the cafe, but Dave took the opportunity to purchase a technical fabric t-shirt. (What a shopper--three visits to Tiso, three purchases!) We took a long break and admired all the dogs that came into the cafe -a lot of really cute goldens today!
When we came outside to mount up, there was real sunshine! I think this afternoon was the first time we stripped down to just cycling shorts and tees since our arrival in Scotland. It was still windy. We rode all the way through the town core of Aviemore to the south and were astonished at the number of people and number of outdoor stores. We passed a skate park and an adventure park. We then peeled onto the Eurovelo 1 (also National Cycle Route 7) which we have been on a number of times on this trip (in Spain, Ireland and in Southwestern Scotland). We rode along the side of a ridge with the stunning view of the Spey valley. Road was good but narrow with a little traffic and we did pull over a few times to let vehicles pass. Drivers continue to be patient.
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As we neared Kingussie we had our third sighting of a highland coo - in a field with a bull, but they didn’t look too happy with each other.
Just afterwards we came to our second historical sight of the day, the Ruthven Barracks, built between 1719 and 1721 by the British to garrison English troops. This was during the Jacobite uprisings and Ruthven Barracks was one of four garrisons built to house British soldiers in the Highlands. Its purpose was to enforce the Disarming Act of 1716 - a law passed which required the Highland clans to give up their arms, in the (futile) hope of preventing further rebellions against the Hanover dynasty.
It was a stunning site from a distance and its strategic benefits were obvious, perched dramatically on an hill with views all across the Spey valley. We parked our bikes and climbed up to the ruin. There was just enough information on some placards to make us feel like we learned something.
The garrison could hold a total of 120 soldiers and the infantry lived ten to a small stone room where they cooked and slept two to a bed. In the center of the Barracks was an open courtyard. On the corners were towers that housed officers, a bakehouse, a brewhouse and a prison. The living quarters looked unpleasant, cramped and hard. Stables were built later on for 30 horses.
The Barracks were besieged by Jacobite rebels in August of 1745. At that time a mere twelve English soldiers in the Barracks managed to repel the attack of 300 Jacobites but the following February 1746 the Jacobites came back with artillery and attacked the garrison. It surrendered to the Jacobites who then occupied the garrison. A few months later the Jacobites were defeated at the Battle of Culloden. The remaining Jacobite forces retreated to Ruthven to await instructions from their leader Bonnie Prince Charlie. He eventually sent word that he would not continue the campaign and that proved to be definitive in terms of ending the Jacobite cause.
After our wander through the Barracks, another highland coo came up to the fence to pose for us. She had on a solar tracker and we could tell from her teats that she was still nursing, although there was no sign of her calf. I guess she needed some quiet time.
We arrived at the Crossings, a new little inn just opened one year ago. A new Scottish inn felt different and we enjoyed it. Our room was small, but it had good internet, fresh homemade cookies and a tub! There was no bar so Dave had to walk into town (two long blocks) to get his afternoon beer. It was also right by the train station.
That evening Melinda had picked out the Jacobite Bar and Grill at the Star Hotel for dinner, this too being a new place making a splash in small Kingussie. We had a charming 18 year old waitress who had only ever uncorked four bottles of wine and she struggled with ours - Dave coached her through the process - it was pretty humurous.
We had haggis spring rolls and I had an prawn stir fry while Dave did sea bass; we have lost our fear of haggis. It’s a very mild dish and not threatening at all - so long as you don’t focus on the business with the sheep’s stomach….
Afterwards we stopped to check out the local co-op grocery. Tomorrow we hope to pickup a sandwich as there is not much on the road to Blair Atholl.
Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 2,474 km (1,536 miles)
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