Day 7: Monday, 16 May 1983

Start: A beach along the road, Mitikas, Greece

End: Olive grove along the road, Messopotamo, Greece

Mike, Richard, and I broke camp around 8:00, spent an hour and a half in town at the post office, pastry shop, replacing my shredded water bottle with a liter picnic jug, and cleaning some of the grime off our chains and gears. 

Richard and I communicated enough for me to pick up that he was on a more spiritual and ascetic ride than us, and his next destination was the monastery at Athos beyond Salonika.

With everyone ready to ride, we geared out of Mitikas with the Swiss mountain goat in the lead, along good roads, up one big hill, and then through mostly level terrain in the familiar Greek heat. We pedaled 42 klicks in the morning, then a ferry ride across the strait into Preveza. Richard turned east for a long ride through the mountains in the direction of Salonika, and we saluted him. 

While there were three of us, Mike usually lagged far behind, with Richard and me setting a solid pace for each other, pedaling strongly, and taking turns in the lead. At each crest and intersection we waited for Mike to catch up. I think Mike understands now I wasn't trying to show him up or drop him. Just different paces. I'm hoping he's fully recovered from his crash and getting stronger.

Meanwhile, in Preveza Mike and I found a swank outdoor cafe and consumed a big lunch in the shade. I confined myself to Coca-cola. Whether it was lunch, yesterday's beers, or a festering bug, I spent an eternity squatting over a Greek toilet hole before we could get back on the road, stomach and bowels still complaining.

Our pace definitely slowed after lunch, partly with loss of Richard, partly with my stomach, and partly with deterioration of the road. We did another 60 torturous klicks over several mountains on roads sometimes too rocky and rutted for riding. Had to push part of the way, and slowly at that. Fortunately, my digestive upset subsided. Even in those conditions, Mike kept lagging behind and I felt like I needed to lead strongly in order to pull him along, although that might not be the best strategy.

We made it to Messopotamo and dined on souvlaki. Like most rural eating establishments along our path, we were invited into the kitchen to peer into bubbling pots and pans to choose our meals. Greek food is proving very filling, nourishing, and bicycle-friendly.

Speaking of friendly, after dinner we wandered into a bar where the generous proprietor and patrons, upon learning of our mode of transportation, treated us to pastries and shots of ouzo. It seems like the farther we get away from urban and touristy areas, the friendlier the locals become. Or maybe that has something to do with the ouzo.

We didn't bother to set up tents, just rolled out bags and slept under the stars in an olive grove beside the road.

Conditions 

Distance: 102 km and a short ferry across the strait 

Weather: Hot 

Road: Started good, then terrible, some impossible to ride 

Traffic: Very light 

Terrain: More climbs, longer and steeper 

Mechanical: All is well 

Physical: Unhappy digestive system for most of the day