Day 57: Tuesday, 5 July 1983

Start: Campground, Lescheret, Belgium

End: Campground, Hirson, France

A strong riding day.

Broke camp at 8:30 and rode west through the Ardennes. Getting hillier, but no serious grades until I went off a slightly busy road, down into the valley of the Semois River on a minor lane, then up into France. 

The Ardennes wins an award as an outstanding little part of the continent. Perfect place to pedal.

Thought I might want to spend some time in Sedan, but it was mostly a bust. I arrived about 12:15 and just about everything was locked up. Do they do the siesta thing here? I managed to change some money into French francs and buy some junk food. Cruised around a little and looked at Guderian's 1940 Meuse crossing points. No real need to hang around. Plus, Sedan has a very weird vibe. The people don't look French at all. Immigrant workers? Seems rude to say it, but everyone kind of walks around with a blank expression or facial tics. Lots of strange, garish clothing. Not sure what's going on, but this doesn't feel like any other part of France I've seen. Definitely no reason to hang around.

I push toward Charleville. Ride about ten kilometers with a French racer who sets me a pretty good pace and then recommends the best roads to take. There are a few other local riders around, but no one with gear. Haven't seen many bicycles on tour lately. Haven't really been making connections with anyone for a few days. Guess I haven't had much to say. I'm back in the groove as far as pedaling, but the riding itself is becoming the real focus. Ride, eat, sleep. A pretty solitary pursuit, but I'm enjoying this rhythm and routine, at least for the time being.

No campgrounds around, but I'm feeling strong. I end up on a busy road with a bunch of trucks, but a good shoulder. Lots of high-gear cranking through a roller coaster of ups and downs. 

Found campground in Hirson.

Conditions 

Distance: 134 km 

Weather: Warm 

Road: Good 

Traffic: Moderate, then light, then busy 

Terrain: Hilly, then rolling ups and downs 

Mechanical: No problems 

Physical: Feeling very strong