Oberwald to Andermatt: Up and over Furka Pass - Poking Around Europe 4.0 - CycleBlaze

October 4, 2017

Oberwald to Andermatt: Up and over Furka Pass

Another great cycling day. Despite my doubting the weather forecast, sure enough, we woke up this morning and it was sunny and dry. The way it bucketed with rain yesterday I really found it hard to believe. We enjoyed another good breakfast at the Sport Hotel. I ate a very substantial breakfast to carb up for the climb ahead. That was my excuse anyway. The Sport Hotel was a super spot to stay. When we asked about making sandwiches for a picnic lunch, out came sandwich bags and no charge. The staff were friendly and the bed (and pillows) were so comfy.

At the reception desk in the Sport Hotel.
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Great spot to stay if you find yourself in Oberwald.
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We were headed up the Furka Pass almost immediately. The first km was familiar after our navigational glitch, but just as beautiful as it had been that afternoon. The views just kept getting better and better. The grade was very manageable, even on a loaded touring bike. It averages 6.7% over 16 km. We didn't try and set any speed records that is for sure. We were busy taking pictures and taking in the scenery. We just put it in granny gear and spun up. It is unrelentingly up...some false flats, and some steeper sections, but never any down, but the views are so spectacular it is worth it. We are so glad we decided to ride it, and so lucky we had such a great day. In the end we climbed 1439 m (4721 feet).

Watch out for falling rock, and yes, those are switchbacks in the background.
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Looking back at a few of the switchbacks. Picture taking was a great excuse for a break.
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There was very little traffic. Mostly motorcycles. We came to the tiny community of Gletsch and stopped briefly at TI, but the two lovely ladies there had no English. They did speak German, Italian and French. Wow. They loaded us up with English pamphlets and on up we went.
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Amazing scenery.
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Looking ahead at the switchbacks. That is the Belvedere Hotel in the distance, which is about 2 km from the summit.
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We were so lucky with the weather.
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What a ride.
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Almost to the Belvedere.
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Looking back at our road...and James Bond's too. This road was featured in Goldfinger.
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Shortly before the summit we arrived at the Belvedere Hotel. It was closed for the season but there was a concession with expensive coffee nearby. I had one. I had earned it. The CN went for a chocolate bar. There was also the Rhone Glacier and an ice cave in the glacier to be explored. The ice cave really was remarkable. We knew once at the summit it was a descent into Andermatt where we had a hotel reservation so we felt very relaxed. We took our time, read the information signs and just relaxed and enjoyed.

The Rhone glacier. Source of the Rhone.
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Inside the ice cave.
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Once at the actual summit we took the obligatory picture and then kitted ourselves out for the descent. It was cool! We were going to have our picnic up there but decided to go down a few kms to get out of the wind.

Looking back from the summit.
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Our summit picture.
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Keith enjoyed meeting Peter who came over the pass in the other direction. As Keith was taking his picture I watched in bemusement as a tour bus arrived, the passengers all got out and all started taking summit pictures. I was worried Peter wouldn't get his! Fortunately he did 😀. He had earned his.
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The descent was more challenging than I expected. I remember our descent from Hurricane Ridge in the Olympic Peninsula so fondly, a big yahoo all the way down, but here the road surface deteriorated somewhat and there were no guard rails, a real precipice on one side of the road and switchback after switchback. It was a bit unnerving for me to approach a switchback knowing if I lost control that would be it, so I suspect I did the slowest descent of the Furka Pass ever.

Going down.
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I had to keep stopping to look at the views. I was too focused on the road to look at them while tolling.
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The road surface was good here. I was happiest when the mountain was on my right rather than the cliff. Have I mentioned I am not big on heights?
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Here is why I liked the nice sturdy mountain beside me hehe.
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I enjoyed sitting on the edge to eat lunch though. What a view!
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Isn't this amazing?
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What an awesome road.
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Then the final 9 km into Andermatt and a well deserved dinner and wine. We had a discussion over dinner whether this was the best day of biking ever or if the Lausanne - St. Maurice day still holds that honour. We couldn't choose. The days were so different and both so awesome. Another pass tomorrow. We are excited.

Coming into the valley.
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We are so glad we didn't take the train.
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As we came into Andermatt, a heard of yaks. They have just been brought down from their summer grazing grounds.
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Here is our Relive:
https://www.relive.cc/view/1214885068

And this is so much fun. A little vintage Bond.

Today's ride: 40 km (25 miles)
Total: 1,849 km (1,148 miles)

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