Locarno to Lugano: A memorable ride - Poking Around Europe 4.0 - CycleBlaze

October 7, 2017

Locarno to Lugano: A memorable ride

Our room last night was gorgeous. We had a full apartment...a one bedroom suite, with a huge beautiful terrace where the bikes lounged. We were on the eighth floor with a great view. We couldn't quite figure out the property. The buildings (there were three, all connected) were full of elderly people and the odd hotel guest. We finally inquired. We were in a senior's residence, and any suites that weren't rented monthly were rented as hotel rooms. The irony of staying in a senior's residence on my 65th birthday made us laugh and laugh. It was the best accommodation this trip though, and breakfast was the full ten jammer, with impeccable and incredible service.

Relaxing in our spacious apartment.
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Looking towards the kitchen.
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Our exit out of Locarno was seamless. There were people walking the lake front in the other direction with identical red pouches around their necks. Bus tour. But when dozens of people became many more than that and they were the wrong demographic we thought otherwise, so I asked. Once close and inquiring I realized those pouches, among other things, held a wine glass and I was really intrigued. It was a gastronomic walk...great food and great wine. The young people I talked to were having so much fun.

Keith has the same bananas in our garden at home. Not quite so gigantic though. I think he is very well coordinated with the bananas here, don't you agree?
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The lake on a beautiful morning.
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The busy bike path. Note the red pouches in the background.
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The bike path was so busy with bikes. It was Saturday and everyone was out enjoying the amazing weather. Half the Tour de France went by. I saw Tinkoff Saxo, Trek Segafredo, BMC, and Movistar that I remember. There were more. They were all having fun on a gorgeous day.

We were spinning down the path when we came to a farm stand. Fresh cherry tomatoes for two francs a kilo!!! Now that will round out our picnic lunch nicely we thought. And the price was a steal. The farmer also had geese. While we were making our purchase the geese started excitedly honking. A snack had arrived. The bike path continued through farmland with mountains all around. We were going to be climbing one soon, so we enjoyed the flat spinning while we had it.

This reminded me of when my daughter in law's parents used to feed shrimp to the dog. Happy geese!
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The Swiss do a great job of marking the bike routes.
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This is a beautiful country.
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We knew the climb was coming, and it was a good one. We did 826 m today, and most of it was getting over one big bump between us and Lugano. It was so much fun, really it was. Some roadies going by paused to tell us we were amazing and that felt good. They know what it is like on a carbon fibre road bike and know how much more difficult it is on a fully loaded touring bike. The views make it all worthwhile.

Warning: Climb ahead.
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Yup. Switchbacks here we come. After the last few passes this seemed easy.
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Our roadie buddies. We didn't try to keep up. My brief conversation with them was so nice. They were so genuinely encouraging.
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Looking back at Locarno. We love the views when we climb.
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Going up. The climb was steady but in granny gear it was fine.
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Coming around another switchback. We had a wide bike lane all the way up and the cars were great about moving over. We never felt unsafe.
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We had lunch at the top, and the ride down the other side was one big yahoo from start to finish. There was a navigational glitch when I saw the bike sign to move off the highway and the CN was so blissed out on the descent he missed all the cues. I thought we were going to have to climb back up to the sign...I was more worried about crossing the highway twice than the climb. But nope, he brilliantly got us back on track further down the hill. Isn't this bike lane beyond fabulous?
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The next part of the route was up and down and incredibly pleasant. Through lovely little communities and quiet roads. I was just thinking it would be paved all the way to Lugano when suddenly we were on French gravel. Truly suited to mountain bikes. The CN puzzled over a better way so we rode up a paved road only to find ourselves completely barricaded off with security cameras as well.

A new to me old tractor. Love it.
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French gravel. What the heck is it doing in Switzerland?
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So we bailed to the asphalt and came to this. Note the barricades and the red and white chain as well as the security cameras to make sure we don't go this way. Honestly, we thought it was something important beyond here so back to the French gravel we went.
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And a few minutes later emerged from the French gravel to this...the other side of the red and white chain. We were in stitches. But the best part...
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We met Andrea, who was such a lovely and interesting man and sincerely interested in what we are doing. Just one of the many biking encounters that reaffirms your faith in humanity. He has been to British Columbia and that was fun too.
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Then it was through the logging operation, a little bit of back and forth, over one more big hill and into Lugano. Beautiful, beautiful Lugano. Our hotel is wonderful, happy hour was fantastic, and dinner was beyond delicious. I felt like I would burst from happiness and sheer astonishment that I am here, doing this.

So, we have decided to stay another night and just enjoy Lugano. Another memorable day.

Honey, are you sure this is the right way?
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Yup, it is the right way.
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Our view from the outdoor terrace where we had dinner.
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Isn't this amazing?
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Yum, yum, YUM!
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A final picture, completely out of order, but irresistible. Keith bonding with one of our fellow hotel guests at happy hour.
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Today's ride: 52 km (32 miles)
Total: 2,023 km (1,256 miles)

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