To Valence

April 24, 2022

We knew we’d be sitting out one day when we routed ourselves through Montélimar, but we’ve been bracing ourselves for the idea that we might get rained out for a second day as well. We amused ourselves sitting around our room yesterday by checking and rechecking weather forecasts, train schedules and maps, and hotel options. We have two days to get to the next certain base, Pont-en-Royans in the Vercors, roughly 80 miles away; but we’re unsure of how to get there. The natural, preferred option is to bike the first day to Valence, which splits the distance almost perfectly. If we only have a partial day on the first day though we could stop short somewhere and set up a long ride on the second.

Or, we could take the train. We really want to ride and aren’t afraid of some rain, but last night’s cloudburst made believers of us. We don’t want to get caught on the open road and far from town in anything like that.

So we’re elated to see a promising report this morning. There’s the chance of showers or light rain at times during the day, but it definitely looks rideable. We make an early exit from our hotel to maximize our chances and head for the river. It’s cool but not cold, winds are mild, it’s virtually flat all the way to Valence where we’ve booked ourselves for the night. Nice cycling conditions and ones that promote making good time. With great luck we’ll get there dry, with reasonable breaks we’ll just get showered on here and there or need to hide out in a sheltered spot somewhere.

Dry this morning but mildly threatening. Let’s be lucky.

We are only three miles into the ride when we are stunned to come to a fabulous suspension bridge across the Rhone, with a ruined castle dramatically sprawled along the ridge above - one of the most visually striking settings of the tour.

The bridge is really remarkable, and in its current form a recent development. The original bridge from 1853 was largely destroyed in World War II, but in 2013 it was converted into a Himalayan style suspension bridge for foot and cycle traffic. It’s a fantastic experience crossing the river on this long bridge as it sways and creaks under our weight. We both walk it because it’s unsteady and we fear the wet surface might be slick; but I don’t doubt that many will cycle it. It surely must be one of the highlights of the entire Via Rhona.

Crossing suspension bridge at Rochemaure, an experience not to be missed. Note that the video of the crossing has been sped up so you can see more of the bridge.

And up on the ridge? It’s the ruins of the 12th century Rochemaure Castle, sculptured along volcanic plugs, its long ramparts trailing down the slope to the modern riverside village at its base. It must be an amazing place to climb up to and explore close-up, and makes us wonder if there’s lodging here. At a minimum it causes us to vow to each other to come back someday.

The castle is strikingly perched across the top of a volcanic plug that reminds us of the chapel at Le Puy-en-Valey.

Nothing is going to top that experience today, but the entire ride to Valence is splendid. Easy riding on cycle paths or quiet riverside roads, inspiring scenery, attractive villages and bridges. We pass through at least three villages that seemed like they’d be an ideal stop for a night or two, and we lose count of the number of times we cross over the Rhone or one of its channels. Looking back at the map now, I see that we had five major river crossings, making nine in two days.

Really, we’re both astonished by our experience on this part of the Via Rhona. We never imagined enjoying it so much, and we feel like we’ve discovered a whole new part of France to fall in love with after all these years. It’s no wonder that the route is so popular - we must have passed a hundred bike tourists today.

On the Via Rhona. Signs warn against crossing this stream when it’s flooded.

Which makes us especially appreciate this short suspension bridge erected as an alternative. It’s great to be able to keep our feet dry.

And it’s especially great to stand on the bridge and listen to the raucous chorus of what must be hundreds of boisterous frogs frolicking in the stream below.

The beautiful bridge at Le Pouzin, a village that looks like a great place to stay a night or two.

Crossing the narrow bridge at Le Pouzin. We were grateful for the separate lane and high railing.

La-Voulte-sur-Rhone, another village that looks well worth lingering in.

Video sound track: I Got a Feelin’, by the Dallas String Quartet

Under different conditions we might have taken more time, but about half way through the ride it looks like showers could break out and heavy clouds crown the ridges so we keep moving forward. Finally though, just a few miles shy of Valence it looks clear that we’re going to arrive dry so we allow ourselves a brief lunch break at a bench beside the river.

Our view at lunch, just south of Valence.

And then suddenly conditions freshen - the wind picks up, the air feels damp, and we wonder if we’ve made a mistake by stopping shy of our room. We hop back on the bikes and continue on, happy to arrive at our hotel dry and grateful that the break in the weather has given us this wonderful day.

When we arrive we find that Valence is a large, obviously attractive city with much to offer - clearly a place worth more than this overnight pass through. We really ought to muster the energy to walk out and explore the town, but don’t. We feel confident that we’ll be back for a longer look, sooner than later.

Heart

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Ride stats today: 41 miles, 900’; for the tour: 1,030 miles, 48,100’

Today's ride: 41 miles (66 km)
Total: 1,030 miles (1,658 km)

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Susan CarpenterI cycled the Via Rhona from Orange to Valence in 2018, my first long distance tour. It was a wonderful two days and the Via Rhona remains near the top of my favorite designated river routes. One of my biggest memories is all the bridges, especially the Himalayan foot bridge. As a newbie to loaded touring, I walked almost all of them, unlike my friend Carolyn who rode across every one, even the footbridge!
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