To Montélimar

April 23, 2022

As we said yesterday, we’ve shortened our stay in Vaison by a day in the interests of biking in the sun rather than the rain. In fact, we’ve probably changed more bookings on this segment of the tour than we’ve kept. Today we’re off to Montélimar, a town that was never in the plan but fits in well under the circumstances. It’s sad that Roussillon, Nyons and the Ardeche dropped off the route this year, but they’re not going anywhere. We can always hope to pick them up the next time through.

We check out of our B&B at 10, and thank Aude for helping us carry our panniers up the steep alley from her garage. Rachael completements her on how strong she is, and she agrees.

We definitely feel like we’ve done the right thing when we bike north out of town under beautiful skies. So much better than taking on this ride tomorrow when serious rains are predicted. After a mile or two of riding the busy arterials out of town we’re on lovely quiet lanes through the vineyards again, gradually working our way downhill to the Rhone. We’ve got a few small ridges in our path but over we’ve got a pretty easy day ahead of us.

In the Drôme. The sign is out of focus, but we’re on the Cote-du-Rhone tourist route.

One last look at Ventoux. It has such a different look seen from the north like this, its bare limestone scalp barely visible at the summit.

In the Drôme. This is really a beautiful region, similar to neighboring Provence but quieter. We’d be happy to spend an extended visit here. We note with approval that Nyons, the largest town near here, is noted for its mild winds. Hmm.

The Drôme is at the north end of the lavender belt. We’re just starting to see some spring green in these fields.

France is so exceptional. You can draw a route at random anywhere and come upon extraordinary sights. This is the enormous tower of Chamaret, a keep that is the remnant of a 12th century fortress.

Chamalet looks like it could be an attractive place for an overnight. Today though it’s just a bit crazy - traffic behind us on this single lane road is brought to a standstill, with a set of cars trapped between two different huge construction vehicles trying to navigate the narrowlane a few blocks apart from each other. No problem for bikes though!

Crossing the final ridge for the morning we look down into the Rhone Valley and across into the Ardeche. Easy riding for the rest of the day.

At about the midpoint of the ride we cross the final ridge before dropping down to the road. After an easy coast for a few miles we come to Donzère, lean the bikes against a sturdy plane tree on the central square, and settle into a bench in the shade for our lunch break. Not long after we’re on the road again, on our way to the nearby Rhone.

We’ve never been much north of Avignon in the Rhone Valley, so we really come to this country pretty ignorant and with few preconceptions. We know that the excellent Via Rhona provides a fine cycle route for much of its length (we rode a short stretch of it down in the Camargue), but don’t really know anything of the country itself. To be honest, I picture a somewhat tedious flat ride and have only a lukewarm enthusiasm for it. I would have preferred a route further up in the hills.

So it’s a shock when we reach the river at Donzère and see these magnificent white limestone cliffs soaring above both banks of the river and the stunning Robinet Bridge spanning the river. This remarkable stretch of river is the Donzère Gorge, regarded as the northern boundary for Mediterranean climate in the Rhone Valley. For the next several miles we follow the bank of the river on the idyllic Via Rhona cycle route through a setting that reminds me of the Rhine Gorge, or in a modest way even the Alte Adige cycle route through the Dolomites between Bolzano and Trento. Totally unexpected, totally delightful.

The Robinet Bridge dates to the mid 1800’s, but was rebuilt in 1950 after it was destroyed by the partisans in the Second World War to impede the retreat of the German forces.

Near Viviers an enormous statue of the Archangel Michael (also visible in the photo above) crowns the ridge.

Crossing the Rhone on the Suspension bridge at Viviers. Remarkably, we cross the Rhone four times in the ten miles between Donzère and Montélimar.

It’s an exceptionally easy and enjoyable ride from Donzère to Montélimar. We’re on the Via Rhona the whole way, mostly on separated paved paths alongside the river. We arrive in Montélimar, a modest-sized town without much of a tourism reputation, in midafternoon and settle in to our hotel room for a two night stay. With heavy rains in the forecast, we’re expecting to have a relaxed break from the bikes while we wait for better weather.

On the Via Rhona, approaching Montélimar.

Video sound track: Je Ne Vous Oublie Pas, by Musiques Idolees

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Ride stats today: 42 miles, 1,500’; for the tour: 989 miles, 47,200’

Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 989 miles (1,592 km)

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Steve Miller/GrampiesMontelimar is famous as the home of Nougat. Well, famous with us, anyway. We had a tour of a Nougat factory when we were there a few yeas ago. Yummy.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesNougat’s the big draw here alright, although neither of us really cares for it. Mom loved it, which makes us feel wistful.
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2 years ago