The Nesque Gorge

April 19, 2022

Well, we could have just dashed up to the summit of Mount Ventoux today. Only 45 miles with 6,200’ of climbing, it would easily fit into the day. But we just did that seven years ago and the memory is still quite fresh in our minds. Too soon.

And besides, we wouldn’t even be carrying our panniers this time. Where’s the challenge in that?

Instead we decide on the Nesque Gorge, which we’ve also seen before but so long ago I can scarcely remember it and even question whether I’ve just invented the memory. If we were here, it must have been in July 2003, on a day ride from Sault. If we’re remembering correctly the original plan for this layover day was to climb Ventoux; but we were both so steamed by the horrendous heat wave that summer that a climb up Ventoux was just too far over our heads.

Many cyclists are probably aware of the Nesque Gorge, justly regarded as the most spectacular gorge in Provence after the sublime Gorge du Verdon. An incredible gorge, and an incredible bike ride. If you watch just one video from this tour, this is the one. If it doesn’t convince you to come here and ride it yourself, watch it again.

Video sound track: On Ne Change Pas, by Celine Dion

First though we have to get to the top. We get a reasonably early start by leaving at ten, wanting to make it to the summit before the day heats up too much. We plan the ride as an out and back, so that we can just turn back if the ride is feeling too long.

The lower entrance to the gorge is at the village of Villes-sur-Auzon, thirteen miles away by the quiet route I’ve mapped us into. They’re slow miles, much of the time on poorly surfaced roads and with a pair of ridges to be crossed. It’s not far before noon when we get to the base of the gorge, and with an eleven mile climb ahead of us we’re not certain of whether we’ll make it to the top. Among other considerations we badly need a trip to the laundromat and are hoping to make it back to Carpentras while there’s still time for that chore before dinner.

The ride begins right away with this gradual but rough climb that cuts through the ridge just east of town. I wonder what the history of this path is - it reminds me of the age-old Etruscan trails in southern Tuscany, worn down by millennia of foot traffic.

Out of that little slot canyon, our views open up. Ahead are the Dentelles du Montmirail, the toothy limestone ridge just south of Vaison-le-Romaine.

These first miles are lovely, quiet but slow cycling as we cross a pair of ridges on rough-surfaced roads.

Our route gives us spectacular views of Ventoux, just seven miles to the northeast aa the raven flies. We’ve never seen it from this direction, the one that probably gives the broadest view of it.

Mount Ventoux, the windy mountain. Actually, this would be a spectacular day to be up there.

The views to the right are worth some attention also.

We feel so lucky! We really couldn’t have hoped for a better day for this climb. It’s comfortable and mild, the sky is clear, visibility couldn’t be any better. It’s a weekday after a holiday and the road is nearly empty except for cyclists and motorcycles. To top it off, we have the assist of a significant tailwind that makes the eleven mile climb seem as nothing. When I’m not stopped for photos or to just gaze at the incredible gorge, I probably average 10 to 12 mph climbing at a grade that hovers around 3-4% most of the way up.

At the base of the gorge. The first few miles look like this and leave me wondering if I’m wrong about having been here before. I remember tunnels and dramatic limestone cliffs, but maybe that’s some other gorge from our past.

As always, I soon lose sight of Rachael. She’s gone after the first photo stop, not to be seen again until the far side of the summit.

Looking back from the base of the gorge we experience this jaw-dropping view of Ventoux. This is going to be an amazing ride, coasting back with this in our sights.

As we climb higher the gorge becomes steadily more rugged, deep and dramatic.

Yes, this is the gorge I remember. We’ve definitely been here before. We’ve never climbed it though. The last time we coasted down and then made a loop of it by biking back a different road.

In the Nesque Gorge. This reminds me of the astonishing gorges in the Vercors, which we plan on revisiting in the coming days.

I reach the summit and am not surprised that Rachael isn’t there waiting for me. I’ve stopped enough to have gotten well behind, and she’s undoubtedly kept on to pick up a few bonus miles for the day. As expected, I come upon her about a mile down the road beyond the summit.

Looking off the east side of the gorge toward the Sault Plateau.

We turn back and climb together to the summit, where we take a few minutes to absorb the spectacular views along with the fifteen or so bikers already there, and then turn to lunch. While we’re ther a steady stream of new bikers pull off - there must be hundreds that make this climb today. While we sit, we watch a pair of ravens soaring above, mesmerized by them. The two stay in very tight formation for several minutes as they gyrate around the summit. It’s almost erotic - do ravens do it in the air?

The view from the top is astonishing, with Ventoux ahead and the dizzyingly deep gorge below.

I wish I’d been able to take a video of this group as they crossed the summit and began their descent. There was an audible collective gasp as they rounded the bend and were slammed by the enormous view of Ventoux straight ahead.

And then, down - exhilaratingly, for eleven miles. But then you know that, if you viewed the video. It’s a near perfect descent - not too steep, and we hardly need to even brake much of the time because we’re coasting into a significant headwind.

We’ll, one thing could have improved things. Rachael ended up with some bits of straw or blades of grass inside her shorts somehow, and we had to stop several times so she could remove a few more pieces and validate that she didn’t have ants in her pants. Otherwise, perfect.

Descending through the Nesque Gorge - an experience not to be missed.

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Ride stats today: 51 miles, 3,200’; for the tour: 925 miles, 44,600’

Rocky round-up miles: 2; for the tour: 16

Today's ride: 51 miles (82 km)
Total: 925 miles (1,489 km)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	8

Kathleen ClassenOne of our absolute favourite rides on the planet. So happy to see your pictures.
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2 years ago

Angela NaefI am convinced! I definitely want to ride it. Great video, thanks for sharing your journey.
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2 years ago

Scott FenwickScott, once again an excellent routing choice for such a wonderful day. Pat and I rode the Nesque Gorge in May 2018. Also a great ride but the on last 10 KM to Sault it rained so hard that we were completely soaked when we arrived. Definitely have this on the list as a possible redo when we travel through this area again this year. Hope to have weather like you and Rachael enjoyed today.
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2 years ago

Bill ShaneyfeltGorgeous!
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1 year ago

Suzanne GibsonI love love love that video, and the title you chose for the music! What a ride, it really hurts not to be able to do it. Cars almost non-existent. How perfect.
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1 year ago

Jen RahnLove that video!! What an incredible ride and love the description of the group rounding a bend with a gasp of audible awe.
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnI loved the video too. I’ve watched it four times already.
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1 year ago

Rachael AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonThanks! It was an incredible ride on a day with perfect weather! I hope you get the chance to do it sometime.
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1 year ago