To Tauberbischofsheim

September 4, 2021

Today’s ride was fine enough. Cycling along the Main was much nicer than I’d expected - in fact I don’t think it was until a few days ago that I was even aware our itinerary included the Main - and these twenty miles were just enough to make me curious about coming back for a longer look some year. The weather once again was beautiful, but bordering on being too warm and humid by afternoon. Werthheim am Main, coming at the midpoint of the ride, is a lively, colorful place that looked from our too-brief exploration like an inviting place to stay over.

The disappointment for us came at the end of the day, in Tauberbischofsheim. We’re staying here mostly because it’s at the right location for our itinerary, but I had been looking forward to seeing it. We didn’t really find it too interesting though for some reason and wished it would have worked out to stay in Werthheim instead. The ice cream we had when we entered town was very nice though.

I’ve been getting behind on sleep and need a bit of a break from the blog anyway, so with more interesting stops just ahead this is as good spot as any to cut things short. See you tomorrow.

From the lobby of our hotel this morning. Someone will be excited to see this, I’m sure.

Leaving Bürgstadt. I remember these vineyards from the viewpoint up on the hill yesterday.

It’s Saturday, and we saw many cyclists along the Main this morning.

And bird life. Much of the morning’s ride was through a nature preserve.

And scenic little villages with half timbered houses. This is in Freudenberg, if I’m remembering correctly.

And barges - some cargo laden, but mostly with tourists looking over the railings or sipping their wine from their deck chairs.

The barge in the back was just easing its way into the lock when we biked up. Such a tight fit! Looking down at the one below I could barely see a sliver of water between the ship and the wall. It looks like quite a navigational challenge.

Some are less up to the challenge than others. This reminds me of an unfortunate incident involving the Raven and the concrete post by Elizabeth’s parking space we just heard of a few days ago.

Hmm. Time to call AAA for lockside assistance.

A last look back at the Main when we approach Werthheim.

Looking across the Tauber at Werthheim. TheRauber joins the Rhine here, and the old town lies in the wedge of land between the two rivers.

In Werthheim, a town with a number of compelling sights.

They include the ruins of its 14th century castle, the landmark of the town. From the photographs we’ve seen this would be a fine place to trek up to and enjoy the views.

Crossing the mouth of the Tauber to enter the old town. I’m sure there’s a perfectly good explanation for the elves lining both railings of the bridge.

It’s Saturday, and the pedestrian zone is buzzing. Behind us a pair of street musicians in western hats is camped out belting out the standards: Don’t Be Cruel, and Route 66.

In Werthheim. I like the pattern on this one - its midline looks braided.

Looking downriver from the footbridge across the Tauber.

A last look back at Werthheim as we leave in town. If we’re lucky enough to revisit the Main someday we’ll definitely stay over here.

Leaving the Main, we follow the Tauber upriver for the next twenty miles. Quieter, a much narrower valley and a bit hillier.

Along the Tauber, which you can’t see from here but there’s not that much river to see anyway. Slight and muddy, it reminds me of the Mollala or Pudding rivers back home.

In Tauberbischofsheim, a town with a smaller altstadt and fewer compelling sights than I’d expected. Today we’re kept back from the most interesting one by a biergarten that has taken over the heart of town.

In Tauberbischofsheim. Explanation, bitte?

In Tauberbischofsheim. We wondered why it’s flying the flag for the Olympics, which ended a few weeks ago. Maybe they’re honoring a contestant from here? The town is renowned for its fencers, some of whom were world champions and Olympic medal winners.

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Ride stats today: 40 miles, 1,200’; for the tour: 797 miles, 74,900’

Today's ride: 40 miles (64 km)
Total: 795 miles (1,279 km)

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Jen RahnTauberbischofsheim:
It's a five-syllable town ..
Made for the haiku!
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2 years ago

Ben ParkeI have fond memories of tauberbischofsheim, not so much because of the town (the Rathaus and city square are nice), but because the bakery in a grocery store on the southern outskirts of the town right on the bike path had some amazing tort type thing. I will never forget how delicious it was. That’s all that matters, right?
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Ben ParkeNot all, but certainly important. We’d have been happier with the town if we’d liked our dinner better, I’m sure.
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2 years ago

Ben ParkeTo Scott AndersonI’ve had a hard time finding good places of water here. I think I found a good restaurant in the town square of Weikersheim when I stayed there. Be sure to stop in and wander through the palace gardens there. I found them really enjoyable. Really the entire Radweg was nice, minus those few hills. Also, there are public toilets in the town towers in Creglingen near the bike path. The rest of Creglingen is a little meh, but there is that church outside Creglingen with a famous Tillman Riemenschneider alter carving. I think there is a sign somewhere along the Radweg directing you off into the hills to visit it.
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetWe did the reverse of your route in 2015, though we rode from Tauberbischofsheim to Freudenberg. I clearly remember two things: visiting the dentist (Zahnarzt in German, the word I learned that day) in Wertheim, and accidentally ordering myself two large glasses of wine before dinner in Freudenberg. We should do it again someday, when I'm not suffering from a dental abscess or numb from anaesthetic.
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Jacquie GaudetThat’s my fear. I’m just waiting for the tour when I have a tooth emergency. ‘Accidentally’ ordering two glasses of wine though? Sounds like just what the Zahnartzt ordered.
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2 years ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Scott AndersonHealth care in Germany is great!l. We learned when we visited the Apothecary Museum in Heidelberg Castle that Germany has had universal (free or inexpensive) health care since the late 1800s. The issue was billing: because EU residents all have dental coverage, the office wasn’t well set up to take payment. I had to pay cash.
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2 years ago