To Tarvisio - The Road to Rome, Part Two: Europe - CycleBlaze

September 27, 2021

To Tarvisio

It started raining sometime in the early evening last night, but the rains passed on by mid-morning.  Not what we had been led to expect from the forecasts which for days had been warning that it would be wet the entire day, but we are of course not disappointed.

Our plans for the day now look just a tad silly though.  We’ve booked ourselves into a room in Tarvisio just twelve miles west across the border in Italy, back on the Alpe Adria cycle path.  Averse to biking in the rain when there are other options, this looked like a wise move when we made the booking.  Today though the flat, fast 12 mile ride back to Italy just feels like a warm-up, with the weather improving with every mile.

The view north from our apartment as we leave town this morning. Rains ceased about an hour ago and the clouds are lifting.
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Looking up at one of the many ski runs climbing the slopes south of the basin.
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A last look back at Slovenia as we bike toward Italy. It’s an unexpectedly delightful morning to ride.
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Approaching the Italian border, the sky gets brighter with every mile.
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Video sound track: Lo Stadio, by Tiziano Ferro

We reach Tarvisio at 11:30, happy to find they’ll honor the early check-in.  I’m shown the room, the only one that’s been cleaned so far apparently, and cautioned that the floor is still wet.

A half hour later we’re out the door again, off on a hike up into the hills north of town.  The hike starts with a stiff climb through the woods to a pair of viewpoints high above town.  We’re walking through Parco Cervi, a natural preserve dedicated primarily to preservation of habitat for the lynx, following a well maintained but steep trail with periodic information panels about the lynx - its life history, regions in Europe where it still exists in the wild, and aspirations for connecting all of these diverse regions eventually to support an integrated metapopulation.

We don’t see any actual lynx, but we do spot a few cutouts placed off the trail a ways to give hikers a sense of what the real thing would look like if it comes along.  And later we do get a brief glimpse of a red deer slipping off into the trees.  And we see some magnificent trees - beech, red pine, spruce - that are helpfully labeled at a few spots along the way.

We could have biked more today given the weather, but we’re both delighted with how this has worked out.  It was a fine hike, we enjoyed having a more relaxed day, and we’re well rested and perfectly situated for a ride down the Alpe Adria tomorrow to Gemona del Friuli through what promises to be the most spectacular stage of the route.

Our hike starts with a steep climb up the hill north of Tarvisio, rising about a thousand feet in a mile.
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The stiff climb has its rewards. Just a short way into the hike, here we’re looking back east over Treviso.
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We’re on the Lynx Trail.
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A spectacular European red pine towers above the trail.
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Beech is perhaps the dominant species in the forest here. We’ve been spending a lot of time in beech forests lately, which is wonderful.
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At the first viewpoint, looking southeast to the range that defines the Slovenian border here.
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Practicing my yeti look.
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Suzanne GibsonTake picture, GoPro! Good work, Rachel!
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2 years ago
Jen RahnNo wonder the lynx didn't show itself!

The yeti is its #1 predator.
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2 years ago
Keith KleinThe missing lynx?
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2 years ago
Kathleen JonesI’m glad the yeti is hard to find.
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2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Kathleen JonesRemember this look. You could be seeing it down in HMB some day.
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2 years ago
A productive nurse log.
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Striving for the perfect angle while keeping my shadow out of the frame.
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Suzanne GibsonAnother good one.
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2 years ago
At the second mirador, looking west beyond Camporosso. This is the direction we’ll leave town tomorrow, following the Alpe Adria up the valley. A few miles beyond Camporosso we’ll cross a divide and drop down the Tagliamente.
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Another view down in the valley. It’s a steep drop down there, steeper than the climb up.
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The trail down must be 25-30% in spaces, on a surface covered with loose gravel. Slow going, but it helped that I found an impromptu walking stick to give my knees an assist.
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Beech nuts gum up the trail.
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Keith KleinHi,
Is beechnut gum still available? I haven’t seen it for years. It maybe that only we old farts remember it.
Cheers,
Keith
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2 years ago
Bill ShaneyfeltI ate them when we lived in Germany... Lots of work for not much inside.

I also remember the gum. Got me web surfing. Seems you can actually buy $upremely epen$ive gum, but it is ancient. Interesting history out there. Seems they were ham producers back in the 1800s and added baby foods and candies. In the depression, people stopped buying foods and kept buying the gum, so the gum saved the business!
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2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Keith KleinI thought I might find someone old enough to get the point of this. I don’t think it’s been around for about 50 years though.
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2 years ago
Finally down, and now walking along the Bartolo River beneath impressive cliffs.
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Looking southeast toward the Slovenian border again. Those are croci scattered throughout the meadow.
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A better look. At least I think these are croci?
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Suzanne GibsonThey look the same, but these the autumn crocus, are poisonous. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colchicum_autumnale
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2 years ago
Keith KleinHi,
As Suzanne points out autumn croci are toxic. It’s due to the presence of colchicine, which all gout sufferers, including mr, will know all too well. Ain’t botany wonderful?
Cheers,
Keith
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2 years ago
Bill ShaneyfeltLots to learn in the world! The more I know, the more I know I don't know... or something like that Aristotle wrote.
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2 years ago
a splintering shingle roof.
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Ride stats today: 12 miles, 400’; for the tour: 1,520 miles, 54,700’

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Hiking stats: 5 miles, 1,300’

Today's ride: 12 miles (19 km)
Total: 1,520 miles (2,446 km)

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