To Rothenburg ob der Tauber - The Road to Rome, Part Two: Europe - CycleBlaze

September 5, 2021

To Rothenburg ob der Tauber

The day gets off to a bizarre, unpromising start as we go downstairs to breakfast at 7:50, ten minutes before the declared starting time.  Often when we get down at the start of the feeding window someone is already there, seated and eating away.  We’re hoping to get a jump on the day because we want to get to Rothenburg ob der Tauber as early as possible. Also we’re worried about the loud, large group that kept us awake late into the night with their noisy festivities in the Biergarten out back behind the hotel.  We don’t want to get stuck waiting behind them.

Not today though.  The door is locked, the dining room is unlit, and one other couple is already waiting ahead of us in the small entryway at the base of the stairs.  While we wait another couple comes down the stairs and crowds into the small space with us.  Then two more, then more and more.  By the time eight arrives there are fifteen or twenty folks waiting, filling up the entryway and backed up to the first landing on the square.  It’s a noisy crowd, undoubtedly the same ones who kept us awake last night.  They’re all talking loudly, and we’re getting increasingly anxious and claustrophobic, wondering if they’re really all vaccinated. Finally at 8:10 the lights go on, the door opens, and everyone rushes in.

This is the low point of the day though.  Everything else about the day is splendid.  Beautiful weather for the fifth day in a row, and a fine ride.  We arrive in Rothenburg at three, pause for ice cream, check into our hotel, and then shower and relax for awhile before heading out to see the town for a bit before dinner.  We’ll leave plenty of time to explore the town this evening and this morning, but after the crowds have thinned.

We were in Rothenburg 25 years ago on that ride from Prague to Paris that also took us to Heidelberg.  And like with Heidelberg, I had misgivings about seeing this town again because it’s another famous tourist destination certain to be swamped today with tourists.  And it is; but as with Heidelberg last week our visit here is a real highlight of the tour.  An astonishing place, famous for a reason.  But it’s late and I’ll be putting up a second post for the town itself anyway  so I’ll stop here for now.

South of Tauberbischofsheim. For the first third of the ride we generally followed the Tauberradweg.
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Entering Konigshofen.
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Canoeing on the Tauber. They’ll have to get out and portage soon. Just around the bend are the falls and lock at Bad Mergentheim.
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Somewhere south of Bad Mergentheim.
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An interesting barn along the way.
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The steep drop into Niederstetten.
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In Niederstetten. The ivy is just starting to turn.
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An interesting fountain, Niederstetten.
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And an interesting sculpture. Surely there’s a story here.
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Bill ShaneyfeltWell, that was disappointing. Just pig dealers.

https://www.waymarking.com/waymarks/wm131KM_Brunnen_am_Marktplatz_Niederstetten_Baden_Wrttemberg_Germany
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2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Bill ShaneyfeltI expected a more interesting story too, maybe something about the town being rescued by pigs. Great bit of research though!
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2 years ago
In Niederstetten.
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It was a nice descent into Niederstetten but it’s matched by an equivalent climb back out. These elongated stone mounds are interesting, part of a series of about a dozen we passed as we climbed away from town. Residue from mining activity?
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A poor photograph that I nevertheless want to remember, taken almost by accident as this red kite flew by as I was taking the photo above.
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Another interesting farm building.
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Apple alley.
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Beautiful cycling in the high country east of Rothenburg.
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At long last we come to the fabled Rothenburg ob der Tauber. By chance we’ve arrived from probably the most scenic angle, from below.
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There are many colorful ways to enter Rothenburg, but we especially liked this one. You’ll get an inside view in today’s video.
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Video sound track: Grandfather’s Waltz, by Stan Getz

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We have a sense of discovery as we enter town through the back door, the little known Siebersturm. We resist the urge to scrawl ‘“Rocky and Scooter were here” on the walls as we pass through.
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We have come at a quiet time and have the fabled city nearly to ourselves.
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In Rothenburg ob der Tauber.
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In Rothenburg ob der Tauber.
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Jen RahnExcellent color coordination, Rachael!!
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2 years ago
Rachael AndersonThanks. I knew if I kept wearing the same outfit it would eventually coordinate with something.
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2 years ago
In Rothenburg ob der Tauber.
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Ride stats today: 39 miles, 2,500’; for the tour: 836 miles, 77,400’

Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km)
Total: 834 miles (1,342 km)

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Gregory GarceauRothenberg ob der Tauber's name is as beautiful as its sunsets.
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2 years ago