August 25, 2021
To Bernkastel
I’ve known of the bike ride along the Mosel between Trier and Koblenz for decades. I think I first heard of it in Karen and Terry Whithill’s book Europe by Bike: 18 Tours Geared for Discovery. It’s the book that first inspired me to want to tour overseas, and this route was one of the 18. It didn’t catch my attention as much as some of the others - Greece, Spain, and what was then Yugoslavia particularly piqued my interest. I can still mentally picture the black and white photos from that book of them struggling up the steep hills on the Mani peninsula or the island of Pag, and of the storks in Cáceres. Looking back now, I see how much our European travels were influenced by that first inspiration.
I’m surprised to see that this book was published in the spring of 1987 - I thought it was earlier - but the timing was right. I was newly single, I had resources, and travel was a possibility. That fall I took off on a solo ride from Cedar City to Flagstaff, and when I returned to the office a new programmer had just hired on and sat in on the lunchtime bridge game: Rachael.
34 years later, it’s finally time to see in color the vineyards along the Mosel. I can still mentally see that black and white photo too. It’s why we’ve come down this way this year rather than taking a more direct route east.
We’re breaking this ride into three stages, taking it slowly so we can savor the experience. For our first day we’ve been blessed with picture perfect weather as we cross the Roman Bridge and bike east along the Mosel.
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For the first twelve miles our route stays on the left bank. It’s pleasant but not especially dramatic riding, through outskirts of Trier and then a series of small river towns and villages, often out of sight of the river. The first half of this backtracks the route we took biking in from Prüm; and for a short ways we follow the Kyll River until turning east at the point that its route is barricaded due to flood damage.
It’s too strong to say that I’m feeling disappointed, but I am starting to wonder if I’ve misremembered that photo. Then we come to Schweich, cross the river back to the right bank, and everything immediately changes.
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For the next thirty miles, all the way to day’s end in Bernkastel, we bike through what feels like an unbroken band of brilliant green vineyards that line both banks of the river. They’re visually arresting, as vineyards always seem to be when you cycle past them mesmerized by the slowly changing patterns of their rows. The river adds its own drama and color as you bike around its sharp meanders.
If you have a camera handy progress can be slow, as I’m reminded from time to time. It’s even better in color than that black and white photo in the back of my mind.
The ride experience is interesting. It isn’t really what I’d think of as an adventure experience - it’s quite easy cycling, generally flat except for occasional short steep patches when you climb away from the river. It’s very busy with cyclists, many of whom are obviously travelers on multi-day rides - when we stopped at a bench in the sun for lunch I lost count after about forty bicycles passed us by while we sat there. It almost feels like a catered experience, one you could enjoy at whatever pace suited you best. Along the way we pass small village hotels and cafes and wine bars with bikes piled out front and couples sitting around wine barrels enjoying a glass.
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Video sound track: Can See Clearly Now, by Johnny Nash
We arrive in Bernkastel not long after 3. We’re disappointed to find out that our hotel’s restaurant is closed for today because the menu outside looks great; but as compensation we’re able to just wheel the bikes into the back of the dining room instead of taking them to the garage down the street. Not long afterwards we’re back on the street looking for an ice cream shop and looking up at the 17th century half-timbered houses in its small marketplace. Later we find a waterfront restaurant that’s nearly as enticing as the one at our hotel, and then cross the bridge to admire the townscape from across the river.
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2 years ago
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2 years ago
2 years ago
Ride stats today: 43 miles, 800’; for the tour: 515 miles, 13,400’
Today's ride: 44 miles (71 km)
Total: 516 miles (830 km)
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| Comment on this entry | Comment | 3 |
2 years ago
Enjoying your blog as always. Never more so than this week as it reminds us of our trip on the Mosel in Aug 2018. It seems that the damage on the river from the flooding isn't as bad as other parts of Germany. Hope your trip is not too badly affected. Love your pics and reminiscing.
2 years ago
We really haven’t seen much evidence of severe flooding, other than uprooted trees and debris stuck high off the ground in a tree. We were worried about biking through this region and considered changing the itinerary to avoid it. We didn’t want to be catastrophe voyeurs and anticipated washouts and road closures all around, so it’s been unexpected that it’s not worse. I think the worst hit areas are off a bit further north, especially along the Ayr river.
2 years ago