We were traveling too fast when we visited Rothenburg 25 years ago. The night before we spent the night in Nordlingen, a fantastic walled city on the Romantic Road. On the day we arrived in Rothenburg we biked 56 miles ahead stopped off at midday to tour Dinkelsbuhl, another fantastic walled city. We arrived in Rothenburg late in the day and maybe a bit overloaded by a blitz tour of these three sights in the last 24 hours. I’m not certain that we made it off the crowded Main Street through town.
All of which is an excellent argument for retiring, selling your home, and becoming cycling vagabonds. We have much more time and energy when we arrive in Rothenburg this time, and come away with a much different impression.
Last night
The main street through the town impresses you immediately when you enter town from the south through one of the impressive gated towers. This part of town especially is totally given over to tourism but that doesn’t make any less attractive. We have time though, so we decide to just head to our rooms for now and come out again for a better look on our way to dinner. It’s much quieter when we go out at 5:30, and the streets are nearly empty once we leave the main drag. We discover the town walls and the walkway atop them n our way to dinner, and return to them afterwards to look down on the town from above as the light fades and a modest sunset reddens in the west.
Oh, and dinner. We ate outdoors at Michaelangelo’s, an Italian place (obviously) beneath the town walls and enjoyed possibly the best meal of the tour. It’s a good thing we had called yesterday for reservations or we wouldn’t have gotten in.
A lot of the charm of Rothenburg comes from its beautifully painted pastel houses.
The walkway atop the walls is narrow, and designated as one way (clockwise). It doesn’t really matter now but I’m sure it must be very crowded on a busy day.
We woke up early this morning and had breakfast at an early morning cafe that opened at six. We were out by seven and immediately headed back to the walls. The timing was ideal for seeing the town as the sun gradually illuminated more and more of it. it was very quiet while we were out but by the time we returned to our room about 9:30 the streets were just starting to fill up. Really, it was the ideal way to see this exceptional place.
6:30 AM on Schmiedgasse, the main commercial street through town. This is the crowded street we biked through entering town yesterday.
The Marcus Tower, one of the towers from the original town walls built in the late 1100’s when this was then the outer edge of town. There’s a stork nest above on the right, but no one is home.
A staircase to the parapet on the outer walls. There are a number of staircases to the walls, many at the base of the numerous towers, so it is easy to get up, walk a section, and then drop down in a different part of town.
On the walls again. We’re scofflaws this morning and walking counterclockwise, but this early in the day it doesn’t matter. We see only one other person while we’re up here.
There are so many towers in Rothenburg that it’s difficult to keep them all straight. I think this is the Galgentor, built in about 1600 as part of the outer walls.
Trying to get a complete shot of the Galgentor. Not worth the effort though because it was too much in the shadows. This shot itself is interesting though.
Bob KoreisThis time or before did you take the Nightwatchman tour? We were in RodT for the Christmas market just before Covid hit and took it. Fun time, but it was clear out and cold. The one night when we didn't have enough layers. Definitely one of those places that empties out late afternoon. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Bob KoreisNo, we’d never make it that late into the night any more. I’ll bet it is an amazing experience though. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Jacquie GaudetTo Bob KoreisWe did, but we were there at the end of June (2015). We took the English tour and learned later that there was a later one in German. We had taken the Night Watchman tour in Dinkelsbuhl the day before, but it was only in German, so very hard to follow (me) and impossible (Al). The two tours were very different. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
