After returning from our rigorous bike and hike excursion, Rachael felt like she needed more and left almost immediately to explore the town. I felt that eight miles biking and four on foot constituted a perfectly fine workout and opted to take a nap instead.
About 45 minutes later, the phone rings. It’s Rachael, calling from down at a fabulous beach she’s discovered on the far side of the old city. I really can’t miss it she insists, so after waking up I head out to see for myself. Soon I get another call from Rachael, wanting to know just where I am. She wants to meet up so she can show me the way to the beach so I don’t miss it. I try to explain where I am, though I’m not sure; and she tells me she’s by a yellow building with green shutters, which definitely helps - there can’t be more than a few hundred of these in the vicinity.
I have a map though, and have no trouble finding the beach - it’s the only one around, down at the base of the cliffs with the access hidden away on the opposite side of a tunnel. And, sure enough, at the top is a large yellow building with green shutters - Napoleon’s palace. I call Rachael this time, letting her know I’ve found the building and beach and asking where the hell she is now that I’m here to meet her. But by this time she’s back at the room.
It’s just as well, because she’s of course right. It is a beautiful beach, worthy of a very slow stroll and about fifty photos; and afterwards the streets and fortifications of the old city are even more compelling. I finally make it back to the apartment about two hours after I left it, my camera filled with nearly 300 photos and a with nearly dead battery. It would have driven her nuts.
An entrance to the old city. Beginning just a block or two back from the waterfront, it’s a world apart.
I’m not certain because I took these two photos more than an hour apart from each other, but I think we’re looking down the same street here that the other photo is looking up.
So I’ve found the beach Rachael has been raving about. It’s at the bottom of the cliff here, through a tunnel and down a switchbacked lane. I call Rachael to ask where the hell she is, but she gave up and quit waiting for me long ago.
Scott AndersonTo Rich FrasierI’m sure that’s the explanation. They’re probably staring at the mainland wishing they weren’t exiled in this dreary place, plotting an escape. Oh if only we had wings, you can almost hear them moaning to each other. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
I walked partway up to Fort Falcone thinking I’d go up for a look around, but then I looked back and saw Fort Stella and changed my mind. With only enough time to see one of them, I had to choose. I decided on the one with the lighthouse, because I like lighthouses.
Approaching Fort Stella. The long yellow palace on the left with the green shutters (maybe this is the one Rachael meant?) was one of the two houses Napoleon resided in during his exile here.
On a few spots below Fort Stella enlarged portrait photographs are mounted on outside walls, meant to illustrate life in the city during the reign of Napoleon. Every one of them is captivating, but the gazes cast by these three in particular struck my imagination.
Bruce LellmanThat shadow is driving me nuts because at the top of the staircase shadow is a little top thing that I can't figure out where it is coming from. Am I simply going nuts? Am I not seeing something? Or, maybe that's it! I'm not seeing something because it isn't there! It might be that the extreme angle of light hitting the top of the staircase combined with the angles of the staircase creates a shadow of something that doesn't actually exist. If that is the answer that must be why you took the photo. Nice exercise in seeing. Well done, Scott. Or, I'm still not seeing something. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanYou’re right! I knew there was something odd about this photo, but hadn’t quite figured it out. The shadow of the grid fence at the bottom gives a bit of a clue though because it gives. A sense of the sun’s angle. I think it must be cast by a different building behind to the right, that coincidentally is at the same angle as the staircase wall. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Bruce LellmanIt can't be another building because there is no other shadow on the face of this one. It's kind of driving me nuts, thank you very much! Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonThe colors really are striking in the old town. I’d like to have had another reasonable day for a second pass, but the weather has definitely turned. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanYes, and I’m greatly in her debt for it. I really need an extra prod at times. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Bruce LellmanOn the other hand, if you hadn't gone out you wouldn't have gotten that photo of the shadow that is driving me nuts. Thanks a lot Rachael! Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Rachael AndersonTo Bruce LellmanI was so glad I went exploring. Before that, I didn’t really care for Portoferraio that much because of the crazy drivers. The hidden cove was amazing with all the wonderful colors. I was frustrated that I couldn’t capture it with my phone camera so I had to get Scott out there. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Bruce LellmanTo Rachael AndersonSecretly I think Scott loves to be prodded by you, Rachael. It keeps him in line and young. He knows it. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
