Harney Peak hike

October 12, 2015

Today is a South Dakota state holiday called Native Americans Day. Before 1990 it was called Columbus Day. In honor of Native Americans Day I will hike to the summit of Hinhan Kaga, the Lakota name for Harney Peak. Highest peak in the Black Hills, highest peak in South Dakota, highest peak between the Rocky Mountains and the Azores.

The Lakota people have petitioned to formally change the name, claiming that it is offensive to name their sacred mountain after an Army officer whose men massacred Lakota women and children during a battle in 1855. I think it's a persuasive argument but the South Dakota legislature is unmoved. They agreed to ditch Christopher Columbus but for some reason can't agree to ditch General William S. Harney.

Update: In 2016 the South Dakota Legislature changed the name of the state's highest peak to Black Elk peak. Black Elk was a revered Lakota holy man.

I got up at 7 and had breakfast at McDonald's on the way to the car rental office. Then I walked 4 more blocks to Enterprise car rental to pick up a Kia Sorrento (small SUV) which I will drive 1-way to Roseburg, Oregon. I expect to be home in 4 days but the car is reserved for 5 days. The rental fee is the same for 4 days or 7 days.

Today's weather is sunny but 20F cooler than yesterday. Fortunately today's wind will only be 20 mph. The clear dry weather should give excellent visibility from Harney Peak.

It took an hour to drive from Rapid City to the trailhead, deep in the Black Hills. First I continued a mile past the trailhead on the Needles highway to where the road is closed at the first tunnel. I walked around and took a few pictures.

The Needles Eye tunnel is only 8 feet 4 inches (2.56 m) wide. Narrowest tunnel in the Black Hills, built in 1922.

I'm still furious that wasn't able to bike the Needles highway 2 days ago. The road wanders for several miles through needles like this.

The Needle's Eye formation is right next to the tunnel.

The Needles highway passes several miles of granite pinnacles like this.

Then I drove a mile back to the big trailhead at Sylvan Lake, where many people walk the 1 mile nature trail around the lake and many people hike the trails in the Harney Range. Two days ago I pedaled half a mile from Sylvan Lake but didn't have time or energy to see it. Sylvan Lake has a gift shop and snack bar but it was closed for the season.

Sylvan Lake, elevation 6145 feet. Highest point of the bike tour and the trailhead to Harney Peak.

I parked in the large parking lot at the trailhead. A dozen cars were already there. The trailhead connects to a network of trails, but Harney Peak and Little Devil's Tower are the main destinations. The round trip hike to Harney Peak is 6.2 miles (10 km). The summit is 1100 feet (330 m) higher than the trailhead but the total ascent is 1400 feet (424 m) because of a big downhill in the middle.

The Harney Peak area has many miles of hiking trails.

I hiked to Harney Peak in 1993 from a different trailhead. Today's route is the shortest and most popular route. The first half of the trail is gently graded double track, obviously once a jeep road. The second half of the trail is single track, much steeper.

I started the hike at 11 AM but the temperature at the trailhead was only 50F (10C) because of the dense shade. The temperature rose quickly once I got to the sunny upper slopes where most of the pine trees have been killed by pine beetles.

I didn't realize until afterwards that this photo shows the summit lookout in the upper right.

I saw dozens of people on the trail. An ordinary fall Monday would have fewer people but today is a holiday.

The trail was forested until Pine Beetles killed most of the trees during 2000-2010. Most of the dead wood was removed by helicopter.

After I got home I looked at the photos from my hike to Harney Peak 22 years earlier. It was much more forested then. 22 years from now most of it will be shady again.

The final 100 feet of ascent to Harney Peak is mostly rock stairs, with two pitches of metal stairs. The stairs and building were built using stones hauled up the trail by human and animal power. The purpose of the Civilian Conservation Corps was to employ many people, not be efficient.

The fire lookout was last staffed in 1967. I presume the upper level had glass when it was used as a lookout.

Alert reader Nathan Wajsman in Spain informed me that Mount Pico in the Azores is 144 meters higher than Harney Peak. Therefore, Harney Peak is merely the highest point east of the Rocky mountains and west of the Azores.

I stayed on the summit for at least 30 minutes, enjoying the views and exploring the lookout.

Looking west, into the sun with a 40 mph wind on my back left. One sleeve pressed flat, the other sleeve inflated like a balloon.

Harney Peak in July 1993 (scan of a 35mm negative). I was thinner and my hair was darker.That day I hiked to Harney Peak via a longer trail from a lower trailhead and pedaled 43 miles.

The wind wasn't too strong at the base of the structure but it was difficult to stand up on the upper balcony because of the strong wind. Temperature at the summit was about 60F (15C) but the wind made it seem colder. I definitely wanted to sit in the sun.

Looking northeast. The big flat-top rock is the back side of Mount Rushmore.

Telephoto view to the northeast. The white blob is the Mount Rushmore parking garage.

Visibility was excellent thanks to the absence of clouds and low humidity. I couldn't see very well to the south and southwest, looking into the low autumn sun.

Looking southwest at the Needles, directly into the sun.

Today was totally sunny and dry, but cooler than yesterday. High of 65F (18C) when I returned to the trailhead. Very breezy but not as windy as yesterday. Crisp and cool, nice weather for a mountain hike.

View of Harney Peak from the halfway point of the trail.

The 6.2 mile hike took 4.5 hours. Afterwards I begin the long drive home but I can't go far today because it's 3:30 PM. The beginning of the drive will be slow because I want to see Spearfish Canyon. North on US 385 to Deadwood and Lead, then US 14A into Spearfish Canyon. The canyon road is very winding and I'm always behind somebody driving only 35 mph. Pedaling and hiking for 3 weeks hasn't made me a more patient driver.

In the middle of the canyon I took the 1 mile gravel side road to Roughlock Falls. The falls view point is a 500 foot walk from the parking lot. I took a quick time exposure of the falls without bothering to anchor the camera.

It was about sunset when I finally exited Spearfish Canyon into the charming town of Spearfish, South Dakota. The town has several motels but I decided to go another 30 miles west on I-90 to the much smaller town of Sundance, Wyoming. Got a $73 room at Bear Lodge motel and had a great dinner at the Longhorn Saloon and Grill.

It was an awesome day. Perhaps the most memorable part of this trip was the hikes before and after the bike tour.

Hiking: 7 mi. (11.2 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	2
Comment on this entry	Comment	0