August 17, 2022
Preparation
Committing to a trip like this is part easy, part hard. I'll get to the hard part later, but first, gathering the gear I needed to be self-sufficient required a lot of research. While I plan to buy food along the way, I wanted to camp out most nights. Although wild camping is frowned upon in most of Europe, the Rhine route is blessed with plenty of campgrounds. I hope to try a mixture of both.
As a hiker (though my knees and back might disagree!), I already had useful gear for the trip - tent, sleeping mat, sleeping bag, and cooking gear. However, I needed some cycling-specific gear since this bike would be my transport and conveyor of "comforts" for 30 days on the road. You quickly learn that every gram matters. I packed and repacked many times, constantly asking myself, "What can I leave behind?" Other tour and adventure cyclist blogs were a huge help - many acknowledged that their first few days on their first trip were a steep learning curve in terms of what they should and shouldn’t have packed. Stories of mailing gear back home are quite common.
One challenge for me is that I’ll be cycling during a change in seasons, starting at over 2,000 metres above sea level (cool to cold) and finishing at sea level (mild to warm), so choosing appropriate clothing has been tricky!
My fully loaded bike, a Merida 500 Speeder hybrid doesn’t have the best gearing for hills, but this particular route is mostly downhill (or so the tourist guides claim!). There are a few steep gradients where I know I’ll have to push the bike, but they seem to be rare. I’ve tried to convince myself that since I’m riding from the river’s source to the sea, I probably won’t need to pedal at all - just coast to the coast!
I’ve brought along a couple of luxury items that, for now, I’m not willing to part with: a hiking chair (about 800 grams) and an AeroPress Go coffee maker. If I don’t get my coffee in the morning, heaven help the first person who cheerily greets me!
Now, the hard part of committing to this trip - telling my family about my plans. They've always been supportive of my need to ‘wander,’ but the world has changed. It feels a bit wilder and woollier out there. We’re still dealing with a global pandemic, there’s now a war in Eastern Europe, and I’ll be travelling solo. While I know my limitations and capabilities and feel confident in my ability to read the environment around me, it doesn’t make it any easier for my family. They also know my commitment to Blue Dragon Children's Foundation, for which I hope to raise funds during this ride, as I’ve done on my previous trips in Asia. But even with all that in mind, it’s never easy for them to see me go.
One week to go ... what to pack!
Bike
Merida Speeder 500 - a hybrid bike with a gear range not great for tour cycling but really comfortable - I've added a 'timeless' Brookes B17 leather seat that I’m still wearing in, so may not be the most comfortable for the first 100 kms or so!
I've also added a Tubus Tara Big Apple front rack and the Topeak Explorer rear rack - the MTX trunk bag slides on brilliantly. I have a combination lock for the bike, and a lightweight bike cover - this cover weighs next-to-nothing but can act as a deterrent for would-be thieves (and protects my expensive leather seat from the elements). I'll also have 2 x 750ml water bottles (I'm reliably informed that there are plenty of places to fill up), a bike pump, pedal spanner (taking this all the way there and back just to take my pedals on and off for flights), puncture kit, zip ties, and a multi tool set.
I did look to hire a bike in-country however as I was travelling one way, landing in Zurich, and leaving from Amsterdam, it was too difficult. Fortunately, I'm still a Gold Qantas Frequent Flyer (for 3 more months) so I can take 47kgs of gear with me. Bike and gear come in under that so no excess luggage fees ... unless they add my weight in as well.
Panniers and bags
I'm an Ortlieb convert. Yes, you do pay more however they do stand the test of time - and waterproof all the way. They are so well designed, and their locking system makes it so easy to take on and off the front and rear racks (and I did take out a mortgage to buy these).
- Ortlieb back roller free rear panniers
- Ortlieb sport roller free front panniers
- Ortlieb 15ltr handlebar pack and accessory pack
- Ortlieb frame pack top tube
- Small cockpit bag
- Topeak MTX trunk bag DX
- Sleeping bag
- Sleeping bag liner
- Sleeping mat
- 2-person tent
- Foam travel pillow
- 2mtr x 2mtr tarp
- Hiking stove (gas) and hiking cooking utensils (cutlery, mug, saucepans)
- 2 x bike shorts
- 1 x thermal underwear - top and pants
- 3 x merino t shirts
- 2 x long casual pants
- 2 x long sleeve shirts
- I x thongs (flip flops)
- 1 x shoes
- 1 x light rain jacket
- 1 x lightweight pullover
- 1 x hat
- 1 x beanie
- 1 x arm warmers
- 1 x neck warmer
- 1 x gloves
- 1 x helmet
- 3 x socks and 3 x undies (in case you wanted to know)
- 1 x Samsung A8 tablet
- 1 x Samsung Galaxy S21 Ultra phone and Samsung S10+ phone
- 1 X Sony 1000-XM4 noise cancelling earbuds
- 1 x DJI Osmo4 gyro/gimbal
- 1 x Hammerhead Karoo GPS
- 1 x Kindle
- 1 x Cygnett 20,000 mAh Power Bank
- Assorted cables, adapters, chargers
- Small medical kit (nothing fancy) but plenty of Ibuprofen and Voltaren for aches and pains ...
- Small cool bag (for food purchases late each day to cook that night while camping)
- Passport
- Credit and debit cards (with some Swiss Francs and Euros to tide me over for the first few days)
- Toiletries
- Foldaway backpack (for walks)
- Headlamp
- Money belt
- 2 x bungee cords
- 2 x foldaway 70ltr carry bags (to pack gear in for flights)
- AeroPress coffee maker
- Hiking chair
The back rollers aren't the largest rear panniers in the Ortlieb range however I didn't want too much weight in the rear - and if I had more space, I'd probably use it!
My living quarters
I've spent some time on multi-day hikes (before the knees said enough!) so I'm comfortable with my set up. The tent is free standing which makes it easier to set up on hard ground or under cover if you can find a shelter overhead for the night. I have a two-person tent which allows me to store my bags inside and still have room to sleep comfortably.
Clothing
Now this becomes a wee bit controversial as many will feel that I've packed too many clothes (and they may be right!). The challenge I have is that I'm cycling as the seasons change and starting at an altitude of over 2000 metres and finishing at sea level, so judging what combination of clothes to take is ... well, challenging. Worse case is I send some home or hand to a homeless person (and after cycling for so many days they might hand them back!)
Tech
I do want to keep in contact with family and friends and keep this record of my trip - memories may fade but words and photographs don't (ok ... words and photographs can fade too but you know what I mean!). Late change is that I'm also taking my old phone (Samsung S10+) as DJI, in their wisdom, haven't made the OSMO gimbal compatible with the newer S21 ... brilliant!
Other stuff
Luxury items
Don't even think about commenting on these ... they are coming!
- AeroPress coffee maker
- Hiking chair
I have also invested in some Tiles (GPS Trackers). I'm not sure about the wisdom of this - I'll be able to see where my luggage is at all times. Given the current issues with airline travel and lost luggage it sounded good at the time. Now all I can think of is flying off into the wild blue yonder and seeing that my luggage and bike haven't moved from the baggage area at Brisbane airport!
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