September 15, 2022
Day 24: Eurovelo 15 - the Rhine river (source to sea)
Wijk Bij Duurstede to Hook of Holland
The ride out of Wijk bij Duurstede was a breeze, given the town's small size. I made one last loop around the moated castle - no marauding invaders today, so I continued on my journey.
Today’s ride was a blend of mixed feelings. From a scenic beauty perspective, it was quite pleasant. Surprisingly, the drought here hasn’t seemed to affect the landscape as it has elsewhere, with the greens looking vibrant and the smells fresher. My path overlooked farmlands with occasional detours into quaint villages. However, it wasn’t until I reached the outskirts of Rotterdam - 80 km into the ride - that I encountered a dedicated bike path. Much of the ride involved shared roads along dikes, which, while manageable, required constant vigilance due to moderate traffic. The concentration needed was quite draining.
The first notable attraction I came across was a massive lock, where I watched two large barges and a smaller vessel being 'lowered' downstream. This lock was an engineering marvel, with a second parallel system for narrower vessels. Later in the day, I encountered another lock system featuring four different channels in operation!
As I cycled through the farmland, I admired the impressive farmhouses, often resembling small palaces with multiple buildings. The farmland appeared healthy and productive, with farms raising sheep and cattle. While I didn’t spot any, the faint smell of piggeries wafted through the air - thankfully, not too overpowering! I also noticed extensive apple orchards, with other fields left fallow in anticipation of winter or spring crops.
At one point, I experienced a minor moment of panic when a black cat hesitated at the edge of the road, contemplating crossing. I silently willed it to turn back, and to my relief, it did. Not that I’m superstitious or anything - really! Where are my lucky socks?
Throughout the ride, I observed numerous displays of the Dutch flag, especially on farmhouses and in their front yards - even one was flying atop a chicken coop! I also noticed several Union Jacks at half-mast, paying tribute to the late Queen Elizabeth II. Many farms had food stalls out front, operating on an honour system, offering melons, vegetables, fruit, and homemade jams - everything looked fresh and appealing!
Near the towns, the land between the river and the dike often served as a town common, with worn pathways traversed by people walking their dogs. It’s a great use of land for both humans and local wildlife, although not during flooding!
I also spotted several camping grounds in the area, with more caravans than mobile homes, which is a stark contrast to other countries I've cycled through on this trip. Still, I haven’t seen many tents. I plan to check the weather for tonight - perhaps I can squeeze in another camping night!
Just before reaching Streefkerk, I noticed another windmill and stopped to take a photograph. A man emerged from the door; I initially thought he was a guide looking for business. In reality, Peter was a volunteer handling IT and was using the office to complete an online course. He kindly invited me in for coffee and shared local insights. He mentioned that the volunteers manage thirty-nine windmills in the area, some of which still mill flour for artisan bakeries. When I asked about towns nearby for an overnight stay, he quickly replied, “None - there's nothing to see or do,” effectively putting a stop to my plan to stop before reaching Rotterdam.
Not long after, I arrived at Kinderdijk, renowned for its windmills - a UNESCO World Heritage Site boasting nineteen impressive structures.
Upon reaching Rotterdam, I took a quick look at hotel prices and decided against staying there. I really hadn’t planned to anyway, as I wouldn’t be here long enough to explore the city, and it was more ‘urban’ than I preferred.
Having covered just over 80 km today, I set my sights on Hook of Holland, another 33 km away, all the while keeping an eye out for accommodation. The ride out of Rotterdam featured either bike paths or well-separated cycle lanes, but the route was filled with twists and turns, often requiring me to crossroads only to return to the same side within a few hundred metres. I didn’t pass any hotels!
About 20 km from my destination, I caught a whiff of salt air - the North Sea! Suddenly, I spotted over a dozen wind turbines lining the waterway leading out to sea. I was finally within sight of the end of the EuroVelo 15 route.
Hook of Holland was the last stop on my official ride - although I’ll ride to Amsterdam tomorrow to catch my flight home to Australia in a few days’ time.
Today, I reached my destination, but not my final goal. Tomorrow morning, I’ll head to the pier extending out from the river mouth, where I plan to pour the water, I collected from Lake Toma 24 days ago into the North Sea.
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