September 14, 2022
Day 23: Eurovelo 15 - the Rhine river (source to sea)
Arnhem to Wijk Bij Duurstede
After a day off in Arnhem, I was ready to hit the road again. Interestingly, I often find the day after a rest day to be one of the hardest rides. My body takes a bit of time to get back into cycling mode, and I tend to overdo the walking on rest days, leaving my legs wondering, “What the ...?” Hydration helps - though I’ve been reminded that alcohol doesn’t quite count as rehydration!
Today's ride was absolutely tremendous! I’ve missed being surrounded by forests and trees. The past few days have mostly been along the Rhine or through farmland, and even the nature conservation areas lacked the dense tree cover I love. But today was all about the forest, with plenty of scenic paths that led me deep into the woods. With few attractions along the way, it was a day to simply enjoy the ride.
The exit from Arnhem was swift, setting the tone for the day as I followed well-paved paths through parks. I soon returned to Oosterbeek, where I had visited the Airborne Museum and cemetery yesterday. This time, my route took me behind the museum and through a 6 km forest trail. Toward the end of the trail, I found myself on a picturesque country road lined with large oak trees - a real postcard moment.
There were a few stretches alongside roads and motorways, but just past Wageningen, I veered back onto quiet bike paths, weaving between pastures and the Nederrijn, one of the many branches of the Rhine. At around the 30 km mark, I stopped in Rhenen for a break and stumbled upon a chocolatier and patisserie. Oddly enough, they didn’t serve drinks, so I made do with water and imagined it was coffee! As I was leaving, I spotted a young tradesman walking in ... wearing wooden clogs! It turns out some farmers and tradespeople here still wear them.
For the first time in over a week, hills made an appearance. Nothing like the Swiss mountains, but enough to remind me that not all of the Netherlands is as flat as we’re led to believe. After tackling a few ups and downs, I decided to stop for lunch in Wijk bij Duurstede, about 20 km away. The first 10 km were through peaceful country roads, and the downhill runs were exhilarating!
However, the last 10 km was a different story, as I found myself sharing the road with cars. My earlier observation about Dutch drivers was reaffirmed - of the six countries I've cycled through on this journey, they are by far the least cyclist-friendly (yes, in spite of its reputation!). It’s the first time since I left Australia that I’ve felt uneasy cycling on the roads. In Wijk bij Duurstede, I even saw cars barrelling through pedestrian crossings, barely slowing down as people waited to cross.
Wijk bij Duurstede is a charming town, and I was greeted by the sight of a traditional windmill as I arrived. Despite only being a short ride so far this morning, I decided that this town was worth stopping at. I began my search for accommodation and, as luck would have it, the Australian connection came through again! The local tourist office directed me to a hotel where only a suite was available - at quite a steep price. When I mentioned I was from Australia, the receptionist lit up, sharing stories about his father’s travels Down Under, including a stint working at the Sydney Opera House. His father still visits Australia regularly to catch up with old friends. Needless to say, I got the suite at a bargain price, with breakfast thrown in!
Like many European towns, Wijk bij Duurstede has a central marketplace that feels like the heart of the town, often its oldest and most interesting part. I visited the local castle, which looks exactly like the kind of castle I imagined as a child, complete with a moat filled with water.
Later, I stopped for a beer and was treated to something unexpected - the chimes from the museum’s clock rang out a different song just before each daylight hour. As the chimes played ‘The Sound of Silence,’ something magical happened: people at the restaurant around me started singing along to the classic Simon and Garfunkel tune. I thought about joining in, but I didn't want to spoil the moment. Besides, I’ve always preferred Disturbed’s version of the song - go ahead, listen to it, and tell me I’m wrong!
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