September 13, 2022
Day 22: Eurovelo 15 - the Rhine river (source to sea)
Rest Day in Arnhem
Today was a quiet start for my last rest day before completing my ride at the Hook of Holland. Arnhem is an ideal stopover town, steeped in World War II history - most notably Operation Market Garden. During this operation, thousands of British and Polish paratroopers were dropped behind enemy lines, hoping to create a passage for Allied forces to push forward into the Ruhr and deeper into Germany. The operation inspired the iconic film ‘A Bridge Too Far,’ and securing the Arnhem bridge was pivotal to the Allies' plan.
Being ex-military, I felt drawn to visit the John Frost Bridge - the replacement for the original bridge, which was destroyed during the war. John Frost was the British officer leading the paratroopers tasked with holding the bridge until reinforcements arrived. Sadly, those reinforcements never came.
The people of Arnhem have never forgotten the sacrifices made by those soldiers. The sense of remembrance is palpable, with many homes in the town and surrounding areas proudly flying the Pegasus emblem of the British paratroopers. It’s a powerful and poignant tribute to the liberators.
After visiting the bridge, I stopped by the nearby ‘Airborne at the Bridge’ museum. Though small, it’s packed with interesting exhibits. From there, I took a short train journey to nearby Oosterbeek, another important location in Operation Market Garden. Oosterbeek is home to the larger ‘Airborne Museum,’ housed in the building that served as the temporary headquarters for British troops during the operation. The museum is a must-see for anyone cycling the EuroVelo 15 - conveniently located right on the route. I recommend setting aside at least 90 minutes to absorb everything it offers.
A short walk from the museum brought me to the ‘Airborne War Cemetery.’ The sight of almost 1,700 graves, most belonging to young men in their early twenties, was profoundly sobering. Seven Australian service members, who died supporting the airborne operations, are laid to rest here. While I was there, I noticed a group of current British paratroopers, in uniform, paying their respects. They were part of the contingent preparing for next week's commemorations of the Battle of Arnhem. Every September, this region honours the memories of those who fought here, and despite the dwindling number of veterans, the locals ensure that their sacrifices are never forgotten.
As I walked away from the cemetery, I saw a fully loaded cyclist searching for the entrance. After giving him directions, we chatted briefly. He was a young Scot on a grand adventure, cycling his way to Australia - a journey that echoed the youthful spirit of so many buried in the cemetery.
Later, wandering through Arnhem, I came across two street artists painting a mural dedicated to the paratroopers. It was a touching reminder that this town will never forget its history or the brave men who fought for its freedom.
Lest we forget.
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 1 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 0 |