September 9, 2022
Day 18: Eurovelo 15 - the Rhine river (source to sea)
Rest Day in Bonn (kinda, sorta)
My rest day began with a leisurely 25-minute train ride back to Sinzig, followed by a relaxed two-hour cycle back to Bonn. It started drizzling but ended in sunshine - a nice ride before breakfast.
Due to bike path roadworks, the detour from the EuroVelo route out of Sinzig was a bit tricky, especially if you rely on your GPS’s rerouting function! Follow the green cycle markers, and you won’t go wrong - but keep an eye out for them. Miss one, and you could be in for a challenging morning. This detour adds 3-4 km to your journey, but it’s a really pleasant ride through town and farmland.
Not too far away is Remagen, a beautiful town that clearly has some wealth. Its waterfront is beautifully crafted, with wide paved walkways lined with cafes and restaurants overlooking a scenic section of the Rhine. Across the water is a picturesque village, straight out of a postcard. Over the last three days, the beauty of these landscapes has been unparalleled in terms of their historical feel. Swap the motor vehicles for horse and cart, and you could easily believe you’re back in medieval times!
The rain showers have eased, and the sun is peeking through in a few spots. Should I leave my raincoat on or take it off? Life choices!
After marvelling at the historic setting, as I got closer to Bonn, modern apartment buildings began to appear, mixed in with the old historical homes. Progress, I suppose! This area is only about 25 minutes from Bonn by train, so it’s a sought-after residential area. Further back from the waterfront, the town retains its traditional charm.
As I entered the outer suburbs of Bonn, in Rüngsdorf, the bike path felt like a boulevard, with paving and manicured gardens and trees - a fantastic way to approach the city.
The rest of the day was spent reorganising my gear to redistribute some weight off the back wheel. Altogether, I’m carrying an additional 23 kg (besides myself), dispersed across front and rear panniers.
Later, I wandered the streets around Bonn’s market area. It was busy with school holidays still in progress. Many people carried masks outside and put them on as they entered buildings, although it seemed only mandatory on public transport and in pharmacies.
Bonn has a visible undercurrent of social challenges, with drug and alcohol abuse and homelessness quite noticeable. It’s confronting and not my favourite city, with apologies to anyone who loves it! This is Beethoven’s birthplace, and although he spent much of his life in Vienna, Bonn claims him as their own. He’s commemorated everywhere. I visited a museum dedicated to him, housed in one of his childhood homes. On my way back from dinner, I passed a church playing Beethoven’s music - it sounded incredible in the cavernous space. I sat and listened, ending my day on a peaceful note.
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