September 7, 2022
Day 16: Eurovelo 15 - the Rhine river (source to sea)
Rudesheim to Koblenz
This morning began with a train ride from Koblenz back to Rudesheim, a one-hour journey that seemed much longer than 70 km. As I stared out the window, the distance stretched before me, and I checked my GPS and Google Maps repeatedly just to be sure - yes, 70 km! I hoped I'd make it back to Koblenz by the end of the day.
By 9:00 a.m., I was in Rudesheim, and ten minutes later, I was on the ferry crossing to Bingen, ready to tackle the left bank of the Rhine. The path from Bingen wound through a shaded forest, running parallel to the river. For the first time in days, the Rhine was my constant companion, visible for most of the ride. On the opposite bank, small towns dotted the riverside every few kilometres, with vineyards stretching in patchwork patterns up the hills.
Today felt like one of the best days of riding so far. The bike paths were excellent - well-maintained, well-signposted - and the villages and castles along the Middle Rhine were simply breathtaking. It's hard to fathom the history this region has witnessed.
The castles, perched on both sides of the river, ranged from pristine restorations, now functioning as hotels or restaurants, to dilapidated ruins braced together by timeworn scaffolding. Each was impressive in its own right. The villages below, like Bacharach, looked as though they'd leapt from a medieval painting, complete with narrow streets and half-timbered houses. It was like stepping back in time, save for the occasional car.
I stopped for morning tea at a hotel across from the legendary Loreley rock. According to myth, Loreley was a siren who lured sailors to their doom on the treacherous rocks below. I watched a cruise boat sail by … no calamities ensued, so I continued on.
Boppard was my next stop, a town filled with picture-perfect scenes, though crowded with tour buses. From here, the path took me closer to the river, away from the highway, leaving only the sound of my tires on the road. The silence was blissful.
Later in the ride, I caught sight of Marksburg Castle on the opposite bank, a place I'd visited in 2019. It was as impressive as I remembered.
With only 10 km left to Koblenz, I caught up with Dave from North Carolina, a fellow cyclist riding in memory of his friend, Lou. Lou, Dave, and others had planned a ride along the Rhine from Bregenz, Austria, to Amsterdam, but the pandemic delayed their trip. Sadly, Lou passed away before it could happen. Dave, and a group of Lou’s friends, were fulfilling the journey as a memorial, scattering Lou's ashes along the way.
Dave's group had dwindled over time. Some friends never made it out of the USA, others caught COVID or faced health scares and had to head home early. Dave was the last rider left. We rode into Koblenz together, determined to find a pub and raise a glass to Lou.
In our quieter moments riding alongside each other, I reflected on the weight Dave carried - not just Lou's ashes, but the responsibility of finishing what had begun as a shared adventure. It was a burden Dave accepted with grace. Lou must have been an incredible friend, but Dave - he’s a legend.
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