April 12, 1991
Grand Junction to Fruita
The unexpected is the norm on a bike tour. After reading of sixty and seventy degree sunny days in the papers for the last few weeks, I arrived in Colorado this morning in time for a late winter snowstorm. The flights to both Denver and Durango were delayed because of snow in Denver - and though the sky was clear in Grand Junction when I arrived at 11 last night, I awoke to a light, wet snowfall this morning.
Actually, I was pleased to be in Grand Junction at all - I had almost resigned myself to a night's layover in Denver because of the delay on the first leg; but the Grand Junction departure was also delayed, allowing me to make the connection.
A few notes about the flight:
- Rock Springs and southern Wyoming were coated in an ash blue snow.
- The plane is a Beechcraft, and very small. I sat next to the prop, which looked to me like the wings of Saturn as it rotated.
- It took forever to check baggage in Portland.
- I'm reading Drinking Dry Clouds: Stories from Wyoming, by Gretel Ehrlich.
- Rachael is in Salt Lake City for four days (ed: visiting her mother Shirley, now deceased).
- Shawn (ed: our son, age 19 at the time) is staying alone at the house.
I had breakfast at a simple cafe after futilely waiting around the motel until about 10, hoping for a break in the weather. I bought a book (Plains Song, by Wright Morris), in anticipation of hours waiting out the storm; and also a pair of warm gloves, after nearly freezing off my hands in the two mile ride from the hotel.
After much decision and uncertainly I finally decided to bike through Colorado National Monument. I anticipated more snow and poor visibility (the elevation in Grand Junction is 4500', and in the monument caps out at 6600'). It turned out to be the right decision - even though the weather was on again/off again, there were enough clearing spells so that I was able to appreciate this spectacular park. The snow added a dimension of beauty and contrast to the dramatic rock formations. There was virtually no traffic in the thirty mile ride through the park, which compensated for the poor weather. I had my first flat only five miles out, and changed it in the snow. Changing it went smoothly. Actually, I stayed fairly warm and dry for most of the day.
I had dinner in Fruita at Pancho's Villa. I had a Navaho taco of a different sort (ed: this must be in reference to the amazing gut buster we had in Saint Mary's the previous summer on the evening before crossing Going-to-the-Sun Pass), and warmed up over coffee. I found a fine, comfortable motel after passing over one with this note on the door: "Fill out reg. card and pay me in the AM".
The weather forecast: 50% chance of snow today, and 40% tomorrow - but right now it's looking pretty fair out. The sun has broken through and is warming me through the motel window. Hope for the best - it's over 80 miles to Moab, and I'd like to reach it tomorrow.
After dinner, I walked back to the city center to shop for groceries for the road, and read Plains Song until I crashed for the night.
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Today's ride: 40 miles (64 km)
Total: 40 miles (64 km)
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