In Zadar (a photo gallery) - An Autumn by the Sea - CycleBlaze

September 8, 2018

In Zadar (a photo gallery)

No biking today, because we have errands to attend to.  My bike’s gears need some serious adjustment (I imagine the new cables have stretched out over the first two weeks of the tour), so I bike over to a shop that agreed yesterday to fit me in if I get the bike in promptly at 8 this morning.  Rachael’s out on her own for a brisk walk, and after that she’s taking our laundry to the nearby laundromat.  I’ve got the morning to myself, at the best time to see an overtouristed town like Zadar - while the light is still good, and before the crowds crowd the streets.

After making the rounds I stop in at a caffe bar for a couple of shots and cull through the morning’s catch to the background music of the upbeat, uninhibited barista singing enthusiastically along with the audio track.

Two macchiatos, with live entertainment
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Jen GrumbyWhat a great way to start the day.

I think Singing Cycling Cowboy and Uninhibited Singing Barista should get together for a performance!
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3 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Jen GrumbyIt made for an enjoyable morning, alright. We really should put more days like this on the agenda.

A cowboy/karaoke duet is really an inspired idea. Not too late to consider Zadar to hole up roe awhile, Grumbies!
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3 months ago
After dropping off my bike at the shop, I walked back into the old city through the Land Gate. Built in the 1500’s, this was originally the main gate to the city. At that time the walled city was separated from the mainland by a moat that has since been filled in.
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Zadar was at one point the largest walled city in the Venetian Republic. Its massive walls prevented it from invasion by the Turks.
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Along the landward end of the south shore, the quietest part of the island. Today there appears to be some sort of fishing derby for young people taking place. About a hundred young fisherfolk are evenly spaced along the wall, in marked zones.
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The contestants in Zone H
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I like this shot. It looks like a young ballerina entered the derby this year.
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This part of the island is also the best spot for sunbathing and swimming, although there’s no actual beach below the walls.
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This makes me nostalgic for PDX - there’s a craft beer festival on in Zadar this weekend.
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Zadar was part of the Roman Empire. This is the site of the Roman Forum, and is littered with fragments of Roman structures.
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The pillory, and Saint Elias Church
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The Church of Saint Elias, largely rebuilt after it was bombed in World War II
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The Capitol of the pillory (pillar of shame), used for chaining people to it for public shaming.
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Church of Our Lady of Health
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The north wall of the cathedral is almost empty now, but by midafternoon there will be a solid row of lace vendors lining it.
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We could buy one, but we’ve picked up one souvenir already on this tour with the linen from Mali Ston.
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The cathedral belltower is a hybrid. The bottom half dates from the fifteen hundreds, while the upper tiers were added in the late eighteen hundreds following a design by a British architect who patterned it after the campanile on the island of Rab (which we’ll see in a few days). At one time it’s chimes were programmed to play God Save the Queen.
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The northern wall of the cathedral
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The Church of Saint Donatus, begun in the late ninth century, is the largest pre-Romanesque church in Croatia. During the Venetian occupation it was used as a warehouse.
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Details of the cathedral’s Romanesque doors
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Details of the cathedral’s Romanesque doors
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Details of the cathedral’s Romanesque doors
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Saint Chrysogonus Church is all that remains on the site of Croatia’s oldest monastery, founded in 908.
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You can catch a ride rowboat ride across the narrow mouth of the harbor, but it feels a bit indulgent. You could also just walk a few hundred yards to the pedestrian bridge instead.
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Tomas (if I heard him correctly), from Helsinki. On the road for the last eighteen months, and currently heading south through the islands. He recommends Finland, preferably in June or August - but not July, when the insects are at their worst.
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The footbridge across the harbor leads to the City Gate, and the heart of the old city. By midday, the central thoroughfares are too packed to bicycle through.
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I collected my bike, which functions now much better than when I dropped it off.  The mechanic adjusted the brakes, but also removed a link from the chain.  His diagnosis was that the primary issue was that the chain was a  bit too long, so we’ll see.

Rachael and I sat out the hottest hours of the day again before setting out for a bit more exploration before dinner.  We made it inside the Cathedral, climbed its campanile to enjoy a view down on the city, and then made our way back to the waterfront and the same fine restaurant we dined at two nights earlier.  It was another perfect evening for dining outdoors - not too hot, a refreshing breeze, the sun setting across the bay.  We were lucky tonight, and we’re seated next to an appealing and sociable couple from San Diego making their way down the coast from Venice to Dubrovnik on their fall vacation.  We haven’t had many extended conversations with strangers here in Croatia, and we enjoyed their company.

We’ve enjoyed our hiatus here.  I imagine it would have been quieter here twenty seven years ago when we originally planned to be here (we’ll, not that quiet, actually - there was a war on), but it was still a fine place to hole up for a few days.  Tomorrow, back on the bikes, and back on the islands.

Like I said earlier, the north wall of the cathedral is lined with lace sellers this afternoon.
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The view inland from the top of the cathedral’s bell tower.
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Looking down on Saint Donatus Church
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Jacquie GaudetVery interesting roof (re)construction!
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3 months ago
Saint Mary’s Church, and the view southwest. I think that must be Ugljan Island across the strait.
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Windy up here. I took several photos of Rachael, and this is the only one where her face isn’t covered by her hair.
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The staircase on the lowest tier is incredibly narrow - perhaps 20 inches. It’s like a single track road - if someone is coming the other way, someone needs to backtrack.
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Inside the cathedral, it looks like a big wedding must be on the day’s agenda.
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Saint Mary’s Church and it’s campanile
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We didn’t find that much of interest inside Saint Donatus Church, other than the ticket taker’s playful assistant. Four months old, and the last of the litter. We’d take her, but as I said earlier we already have one souvenir loading us down.
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On the waterfront, whiling away a few minutes until the dinner hour.
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Sea bass with shrimp and polenta. For a change we ordered the same dish, which works well for photos - there’s no pressure from Rachael to hurry it up so she can dig in.
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A nice way to end the day.
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