In Torino - An Autumn by the Sea - CycleBlaze

October 28, 2018 to October 29, 2018

In Torino

We only decided to visit Torino at all because of the weather, but we’re sure glad we did.  It’s a fascinating place, and one I feel sure we’ll revisit if we make it back to the Piemonte some year.  We’d love to be here when the weather was better so that we could explore it by bicycle - it’s very bike friendly, with bike lanes and bikeshare stations all over the city.

With only two full days here, there of course wasn’t time to do more than just scratch the surface.  Fortunately we were in a great central location, in what looks like an old palace that has been converted to apartments.  Ours was huge, and a fine place to stay with one glaring exception: the WiFi was completely down for nearly the entire time of our stay.  We got by on that front using the hot spot from our phone (weak), and hanging out at cafes between explorations to see the city and while waiting around for the dinner hour.

On the night we arrived, we ate at a so so pizzeria and then saw our first film since leaving home: The Children’s Hour, based on a novel by Ian McEwan that we read a few years back.  It was in the original language with Italian subtitles, a rarity over here.  We do miss the movie house, and will really enjoy that side of being back in Portland this winter.

On the first day, we wandered through the historical center, visited the cathedral, the royal grounds, and generally looked up and around in wonder.  Also went down to the train station to buy our tickets to Genoa, ate a fine meal at a restaurant across the street from our palace, and then felt sick to our stomachs when the bill came and we found our credit card missing.  After checking back in our room, we hustled back to last night’s pizzeria in the hope that I had left it there.  Success!  And just in the nick of time, as they were just closing up.

Day two was dedicated to touring the Egyptian Museum, and hiding out from the rain.  It was Sunday, and the museum was open only from 10 to 2.  We used the whole thing, and had to be ushered out at closing.  What an incredible museum!  The best of any kind I can remember seeing in many years.  I’ll elaborate on it in a separate post.  

Also on day two: a haircut, at Machete; and some planning activity, deciding how to proceed after we move on from Genoa later this week.  We do have a plan now, which you’ll learn of in due time as it unfolds.

Our home in Torino, on the other side of that massive brown door. At the right is the small cafe where we had our morning coffee and pastries and used their WiFi.
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The front half of our massive apartment. Almost too much space to hang out in - too man6 choices about where to leave things, and we kept misplacing them.
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Cafe Carolina, our breakfast hangout.
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Waiting for the Egyptian Museum to open up. If you come to Turin, without fail come here and allow plenty of time.
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The newest additions to our gear list, which we picked up from a street vendor. Small enough to fit in a coat pocket. I suspect we’ll need them often between here and Barcelona.
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In the afternoons we hung out at this attractive spot, along with the college students. And no, we didn’t bike there with all our gear - this is a shot from our ride to the train station on the way out of town.
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What better name for a barber shop?
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A great place, a great experience. They gave me a beer while I waited, and stopped me when I was leaving to point out it was pouring ferociously outside the door, and suggested I sit a bit longer.
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Steve Miller/GrampiesThe dress and hair style of the male staff and customers certainly makes the shop look special. Did you come out with the same shorn sides and glossy top?
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1 month ago
Scott AndersonTo Steve Miller/GrampiesPretty hip clip joint, alright. I especially liked the business manager, on the left - very welcoming, speaks English well, wanted to know why I was in town, shared the information with the barbers who acted impressed. My barber spoke very minimal English so we communicated mostly by pantomime (I showed him a photo to indicate the look I was after). You’ll have to wait for the next selfie to see how well he did.
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1 month ago

Below is a photo gallery from our stay, mostly without comment.  Most of the photos are from the cathedral (high houses the Shroud of Turin), the grounds of the royal palace, and from around San Carlo Piazza.

San Carlo Piazza, the heart of the city. The farthest building you can see is the central train station. About the same distance off but behind me is the royal palace.
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Keith ClassenLooks like you are making great use of your time dodging the weather. You had a great run of good weather as we did when we were over there, but you know it can’ last forever. I heard this morning the Adige was up over 2 meters. And the flooding in Venice and slide at Brenner Pass! Riding through the dolomites and other areas there was just a trickle of water in the river beds when we rode through. It would be interesting to see them now.

Nice to be home and settling back in. We are riding here when as we can to maintain our fitness levels. And it helps with my hockey.

We had a great visit with Steve and Dodie on our way upisland last week. They met us for coffee traveling by bike with Dodie giving her new knee a workout.

Safe travels... Keith
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1 month ago
Scott AndersonTo Keith ClassenOur timing was pretty good, alright; and we obviously can’t complain about the weather we’ve seen - yet. Even our timing for leaving Torino was good - many trains south were delayed this morning because of storm damage, one by almost two hours - but the lines were cleared by the time we neared the coast.

Great news about Steve and Dottie. We’ll see them with a new travel journal yet, I’m sure.

Enjoy the off season, and thanks again for sharing your travels with us.
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1 month ago