On to Valemount

July 17, 2018

On to Valemount. To remind folks of the game plan here: we’ve just completed the first, self-supported leg of the journey with our week-long loop from Kamloops to Osoyoos and back. Next, we’re looking to two-plus weeks of day rides based from a series of towns we’ll drive to for multi-night stays. Finally, we’ll drive to Nelson for another week-long carless exploration of the Kootenay country.

Our next stop is Valemount, about two hundred miles northeast of Kamloops. It’s a long but fast drive on highway 5 the whole way, following the North Thompson River upriver for all but the final few miles. It’s pretty country to drive through, watching the country change from the open, arid landscape we’ve spent the last week in to broad, unbroken forestland. As we drive north the mountains grow more prominent, craggier, whiter. By the time we finally reach Valemount, we’re surrounded by peaks rising above the tree covered ridges.

Beautiful, but in the end just a long drive. You (or at least I) just can’t absorb that much from behind the wheel of a car, racing along at highway speeds. You really have to stop and step outside to feel anything real. It’s a relief to finally arrive at our home for the next three nights, Dreamcatcher Inn, feel the air, look around. It’s beautiful, of course. This is going to be amazing.

Our home for the next three nights. We’ll have to stay alert - the innkeeper said that a young bear wandered through the garden two days ago.

There are peaks in all directions circling Valemount. They really stand out against this evening’s overcast sky, with the the sun just breaking through. A few minutes ago it was lightly raining.

Before leaving Kamloops though we enjoyed a memorable start to the day by taking a short morning bike ride with Ken and Judy, the couple who were kind enough to babysit the Jetta for the last week. With Ken serving as a tour guide, we took a flat, leisurely twenty mile loop west along the north bank of the Thompson River. We returned about 11, just when the day was starting to heat up, and sat around visiting on their deck until finally tearing ourselves away for the long drive north. We left beautiful Kamloops with a warm glow, feeling like we have new friends in a place we hope to return to some day.

The north shore bike path turns to gravel and then to a dirt track for a few kilometers

As we pause by the river, Ken describes the two faces of Kamloops. On the right is the old story - the plume of the pulp mill, slowly dying out as the city evolves from its extraction-based heritage.

Back toward town we see towers of the university, representing the more modern, cosmopolitan trend of the city.

Looking across the Kamloops airport. As we watch, skimmers take flight on their way to scoop water from the lake and drop onto a nearby fire.

The breakaway group drops me in the dust.

Just a few miles past the edge of town, and we’re in ranchland again. Really lovely country.

At the end of the trail we double back to town, riding beneath the impressive cliffs that line the north bank.

Kamloops derives its name from the Shuswap word for ‘meeting of the waters’. Ahead of us, just at the downtown waterfront, is the confluence of the North and South Thompson River.

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Today's ride: 20 miles (32 km)
Total: 466 miles (750 km)

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Emily SharpHi Scott - I've been enjoying your ride so far, sorry it's been so hot for you guys though. I fully empathize with riding in temps in the 90s. The scenery has been very pleasant - it seems like MT with slightly bigger mountains and less terrifying traffic. Hope the next segment is a blast.
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5 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Emily SharpThe heat wasn’t that bad, really. I just whine a lot. It was pretty nice to be forced into getting outside early for a change.

I’ve been thinking of you riding these roads, Em. I think you and the crew would really like this country - great scenery, remarkable geology, a lot of gravel for those that like that sort of thing, plenty of places for a float.
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5 years ago