Bastia to Port de Centuri

April 26, 2025

Day 1 in Corsica

It was a nice quiet night on board the ferry. We were awake very early for our 6:30 am arrival to Bastia on a clear and calm morning. We were chased out of the cabin by persistent announcements requesting that we leave. But like Sardinia in 2023, you really just sit around for another 30 minutes. I think it’s a scheme to sell breakfast, and it also allows them to get going on cabin cleanup. We ate our leftover pizza as a starter breakfast, and Mel got an espresso. There were a surprising number of dogs on board. Dogs going home, or dogs going on vacation? The latter, we think.

Our ferry. The ship was registered in Genoa, and the staff were all native Italian speaking. It got turned around and left the harbour in about an hour. Impressive.

I walked down the ramp and waited for Mel to get her bike. She was nearly last off, after the cars. I had fun watching a drug sniffing dog be rewarded with its toy after all the pedestrians had passed. Lots of pent up energy!

There was one outdoor cafe open on the beautiful morning, so we had coffee and croissant on the square. We took our time and waited for the market was open. I was stalling because I didn’t want to pick my car up until noon, to give myself lots of time on drop off day.

The market was small but fabulous.

There was lots of local fruit, veg, charcuterie, and cheese. Plus we bought a sausage, oranges, and apples for future consumption.

And for the Grampies, there was rotisserie chicken.

We also bought beignets filled with brocciu, a local goat cheese, plus others with zucchini, and two with onions. Yum. Also some delicious local strawberries.

There’s lots of graffiti proclaiming that Corsica is for Corsicans.

The beautiful old Bastia harbour. Quiet today.

A couple market vendors people commented to Mel on how hilly the cycling is. Their pride in Corsica is evident. They said we’d come to the most beautiful place in the Mediterranean.

As we walked past what is apparently the largest church in Corsica, we could hear a wonderful choir of voices. Maybe a mass for the Pope? His funeral was happening right at the same time. Pope Francis was the first Pope to visit Corsica, in December 2024.

Then we did a short walking tour of the old port area, and bought another coffee to kill some time before Mel set off north on her bike and I headed to the airport to pick up my car. It’s small - a Suzuki Swift. It’s been a few years since I’ve driven a standard, but it all came back to me.

Holy cow, the driving is going to be stressful. The roads are narrow, and people drive fast. I pulled over to let people pass. And I just cringed when motorbikes passed me when they couldn’t see what was around the corner. The descent to Port de Centuri was very hairy in the car; best done on a bike. That might be a recurring theme of this trip.

At one point, my phone welcomed me to Italy. I know we’re close to Italy, but that was a bit weird.

While Mel biked, I stopped for a hike along the east coast of Cap Corse on the Sentier Douaniers, the customs officers’ trail (historical smuggler watching, I suppose). It was warm enough that a few people were wading in the water. My hike had not too much vertical and my leg felt okay during and afterwards.

Mel reported that the drivers were much more courteous than expected, although she could’ve done without the occasional swarm of motorbikes.

i started my hike from the harbour in Macinaggio, on the east side of Cap Corse. It’s a real fishing spot.

Maybe the meaning is different here? This is a clothing store, I think.

The hiking path had some interesting vegetation. There were also plenty of wild roses blooming, and lots of prickly bushes.

Easy walking. There were just a few pleasure boats out today. No crowds.

Beach covered in posidonia. A sign described this an endemic sea grass that provides natural erosion protection.

The first view of the west side of Cap Corse. Stunning.

We had a nice new apartment in Port de Centuri. The sun was out and our laundry dried quickly. We bought a few groceries for breakfast, plus chips and local beer for consumption on our terrace.

Port de Centuri is a very small village, but still had multiple restaurant choices right on the harbour, and wasn’t busy. Kids were running around having lots of fun without parental supervision.

Mmmm, mussels. We both had moules & frites for dinner with a view of the small harbour, along with the house rose. And then a complimentary homemade limoncello. Lots of the restaurants were offering langoustines, which we didn’t choose because of the price.

The chat du jour looks wary here. But was very friendly.

Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 66 km (41 miles)

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