Sequim to Quilcene, Washington

December 8, 2012

We started out back at the Highway 101 Diner, though Dodie said she would be happy with our usual instant oatmeal. In Europe I found the stuff could hold me until the first bakery, but here I know that bakery will never come. Despite poverty on the bakery front in the US, there is 'wealth' elsewhere. For example, before I had taken my third sip from the giant cup of coffee, the waitress was back to refill it. Also, our table had a carousel of jams and marmalades that could be used as desired. In Switzerland - 60 cents each!

The menu had the 'mini breakfast' on offer, but we remembered what 'six pancakes', etc. can mean here. We were able to downsize to some sort of 'micro' breakfast - just three pancakes, two strips of bacon, and one egg. This is starvation rations in this place, but seemed just fine.

It was good that we had stoked up with breakfast, mini or otherwise, because before long the 4 degree temperature was backed by a cold rain. We were smart about getting on our full rain gear soon enough, and so could carry on without getting too chilled. One thing is sure, though, it's too inclement for camping right now. So when we passed through Sequim Bay State Park, the lovely sites were just a curiosity.

At Sequim Bay State Park, campsites look tempting - but it is still too chilly for us here.

Mandatory daily photo of cows and fields.

Blyn is pretty much the end of the trail. After a bit more distance on old highways, one is basically on to Highway 101 forever. Blyn is also the site of some very nice local tribal buildings and installations. This includes a toilet complex that we remember from our only other time through here. The toilets were of a composting type, and we remember an interesting wind that seemed to blow beneath the seat. I'm not sure of we blogged about this major attraction, but I bet we did!

At the end of the trail we finally found the map, in a treeside dispenser. Naturally for others this is the beginning of the trail.

Part of the local tribal headquarters. As is common in the region, native government buildings are tidy and impressive but private homes are a mess.

Alphabet systems for native languages are mysterious to us.

Despite the proximity to Seattle, this area is quite remote and often destitute. Discovery Bay, for example, does not have much to offer. One thing it did have, though, was an abandoned roadside craft stand. In the pouring rain, the sagging roof of this thing looked heavenly. We pulled out our thermos, containing hot soup and chopped up left over pork chop from last night. It was quite a lifesaver. The stand was fairly long, and we idly speculated that it also looked good to sleep under. How fast expectations fall after leaving that comfy bed in Cobble Hill!

Discovery Bay does have Fat Smitty's greasy spoon restaurant. We didn't actually go in this time, but the interior, lined in dollar bills left by patrons, is good for a giggle.

Fat Smitty's is one of the few businesses in Discovery Bay, and every cyclist will naturally want to stop there. The food, though, is not that great.

This chainsaw carving was in the pickup of a customer at Fat Smitty's, together with the chainsaw and other carvings.

We have reached the top of the Hood Canal.

Quilcene, our destination, is not actually quite on the Hood Canal, but it is in the watershed. This is a very special area, and we were surprised to see salmon spawning right by the roadside.

By the roadside what could have just been a ditch was actually a salmon stream. It seemed very vulnerable.

As we ease in to this trip, we are entering areas where services are becoming more widely spaced, requiring us to ramp up our feeble daiily performances. In the short run, though, we enjoyed the 'metropolis' of Sequim, and now gratefully rolled in to the 'town' of Quilcene. Any place with more than one cafe (or even one cafe) is fine by us, so Quilcene is super. However, objectively it is pretty darn small. We found a room, in the only motel, and that room has a working heater, so all is well!

The community store in Quilcene. The town is very small, but it does have a few espresso shops.

Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 134 km (83 miles)

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