Day 70: Lagruere to Espiet - Grampies Go in Circles Summer 2013 - CycleBlaze

September 26, 2013

Day 70: Lagruere to Espiet

Whereas last night we did not want to call too much attention to ourselves, this morning we turned on the overhead lights in our shelter. So we had light, power, water, tables, and a roof. Wow!

Our wild camp last night, had everything!
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Back on the canal, it looked exactly the same as for the past three days. change was in the offing, though, because the canal ends long before Bordeaux. Actually it ended for us at Fontet, where we unceremoniously took a right and left the canal. Part of the lack of ceremony was the failure of the canal path people to indicate that this was the way to Bordeaux. In fact, we were left to noodle our way up to Sauveterre de Guyenne. At Sauveterre is the start of the Roger Lapebie bike path, which goes to Latresne, which is almost at Bordeaux.

Back on the same old canal, but the blur makes it look like we are moving fast!
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We calculared that there are more than 40,000 Plane trees along the canal. Each bark pattern is of course different, but all make a good picture.
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An infestation of camping cars among the Plane trees.
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We researched this little monument a bit, found a second hand account from the blog of a French cyclist. He says the crew of the steam boat Gascon was hanging out in the cafe and forgot to have enough water in the engine, which then exploded.
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Meilhan
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The way we found to Sauveterre took us up into the vines, and an environment that felt familiar, maybe from the Rhone. Here were stone villas and wine estates, straight out of a Peter Mayle (Year in Provence) or Frances Mayes (Under the Tuscan Sun) book. We tested the grapes and gave them our expert approval!

Sauveterre interestingly still has its four original gates intact, though the walls are gone. The central square has the church a little to one side, and too much parking permitted in the middle, but it was still pleasant, and with two bakeries.

The bike path begins at the bottom of town, just out one of the gates. We realized after a bit thaf it was a rail trail, as we came to an unused station. On the flat smooth trail we made good time, but not good enough fo reach the only camping along the way. So, we started to look for a wild camp, and found it in the form of the former station at Espiet. The building is clearly under redevelopment as a restaurant, but is only partly done and seemingly on hold. The old washroom shack had an unlocked door with not only an apparently working toilet but a light that came on automatically. We also found a live water spigot outside the main building, plus some miscellaneous chairs and a small table.

So here we are again in a wild camp with water, toilet, table and chairs, and a concrete pad for the tent. No accessible power though. Darn!

The main interest for today is probably in the photos of various things we saw along the way. To understand what they are all about, you need to read the captions. For that to happen, I have to write them. Maybe by the time you read this, some or all will be there. If not, be sure to check back for them!

In Hure, Chez Lulu is the only store, but its pretty good. The baguette they had claimed to be baked according to the guidelines set down in the 1700s by Parmentier. Parmentier was mainly known for his work on potatoes, but was an expert on all starchy foods. The Parmentier references on the baguette bag are totallynserious qnd reflect the French devotion tomrradition and artisanal methods with food.
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This is a pretty normal sign, but I just thought "cavaliers" had a rather romantic tone to it.
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We left the canal at Fontet and crossed the Garonne to La Reole, pictured here.
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That Parmentier inspired baguette was great.
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Our new path is comprised of D roads, but they are ok here.
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Tree pruning, to make them tall and straight for some reason. At first I thought the tractor had a circular collar saw, but the photo reveals a man in a bucket.
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Palm trees. We do not yet have a handle on what climate zone we are in. We feel hot and sticky all the time, even in the cool night.
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Now, cows to look at again, and a new type!
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Bordeaux grapes!
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Here is a good place to buy and pour money in to.
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Baby grapes
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Fruit with sun protection
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Harvesting is underway.
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Another good place to buy?
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Reminds us of The Little Prince. Could this be the one and only St. Exupery town?
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One more nice place up in the hills.
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Even a mythical, exotic place like St Exupery can have a garage sale, but we missed it!
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Look at the neat pruning of the grapes. Much different from Chateauneuf.
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Grape harvesting
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Down to one gate of Sauveterre de Guyenne
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A character house in Sauveterre
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This character house is from the 16th century
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Leaving Sauveterre by the lower gate. The voie verte begins just to the right of that.
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The voie verte to Bordeaux, turned out to be a rail trail.
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Wonderful route to Bordeaux
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The countryside is interesting here
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Our wild camp at the Espiet station. The toilet out back worked!
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Today's ride: 82 km (51 miles)
Total: 4,696 km (2,916 miles)

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