Alpine - Springerville, AZ - The cat named Chevy won't stop this tour, and neither can COVID

June 11, 2020

Alpine - Springerville, AZ

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900 feet elevation gain

I didn't even set the alarm this morning. With a short, downhill day and reasonable temperatures (high of 80), I could leave whenever I wanted. This is the life! People who don't mind headwinds or heat (Jacinto) leave at leisurely hours regularly. I woke up a couple of different times and rolled over. Finally I woke up enough to kill some time on the computer. I talked to Jacinto on the phone. He was in no hurry to leave. Hannagan Meadow was 10,000 feet elevation. He knew it would be cold there. It was 70 degrees at 10 AM when he left. Jacinto didn't go to breakfast, he had plenty of leftovers to choose from. Some had been aging for a couple of days in his panniers. When he got to Springerville, he left the container open on the desk. It smelled a little not good to me. Among other treats, his take out box had a piece of fish. I don't think I'd eat fish that's been riding around on a bike. I'm sure he will be fine. You know Jacinto.

My first goal was to leave at 9. By the time I carried Jacinto's three panniers down to the office and asked Frank about the forest fire (big, rugged terrain, 35 miles from Alpine), it was 9:30. What the heck. I had 27 downhill miles today. I could leave at noon!

Oren, you will be happy for me. There was a mileage sign right next to the motel. It was easy to make that first turn. I had two turns today. One out of the motel and one at the T intersection in Springerville. No navigational anxiety today!

I was hardly around the first curve from the motel when I noted that my legs had no life. What the heck? I just had a day off. Why am I not energetic? I thought getting down the road a little would wake my legs up. No. Not really. This is not good. I stopped and looked at the elevation profile. Oh, I'm on a climb up to 8,500 feet. That made me feel better about the lead legs.

Soon enough I was at the top of the climb. I had a roomy shoulder that was completely covered with gravel and sand. I'm sure the cars that passed me wondered why I wasn't over on that shoulder. I didn't care to ride at speed on ball bearings.

The temperature when I left the motel was 75 degrees. It felt hot as I walked out of the room. I had worn tights instead of shorts because I thought I would be cold! I'm like a frog in a pot. If I start out in cool temperatures, I'm okay as the day warms up. But if I go outside in the hot . . . . not that any reasonable person would say 75 is hot! But I started out feeling warm and ended up feeling the same way.

I told myself to enjoy the views. Soon enough I would be out into Navajo Nation - red dirt and vistas forever. Today just wasn't my day. I couldn't wait to get to town. There was one more climb that I could see the top. Then I had a coasting downhill all the way right into town. I was quite happy to be headed north and not south. That would be a long uphill slog going south. I reminded myself that I had paid my dues on the day going into Glenwood. I earned this downhill. Too bad I didn't enjoy it sufficiently.

I made my lefthand turn and looked at the businesses as I passed by. A grocery would be excellent. There was a Circle K convenience store . . . hmmm, I'd hold out for a grocery. Subway. I haven't had Subway the entire trip. It was 11:30, that's close enough to lunch time to stop. I laughed at myself - since when does the hour of the day matter? I'm always ready to eat.

I read the sign on the door. I am allowed to enter to get food to go. OK. That works. The woman in front of me used her shirt sleeve over her hand to open the door. I quickly caught it with my elbow. Look at us avoid germs! Inside there were X's on the floor in blue. Every other table was blocked off, but there were people eating inside. Score! My salad won't wilt on the way to the motel. The more salad I ate, the hungrier I got. I forced myself to stop eating at half. As I went back outside a very, very overweight couple stopped to admire my bicycle. The woman said there was no way she could ride that distance, although the seat on my bike looked comfortable. The woman had fallen down and broken her shoulder recently and hurt her knee. They were a friendly couple and I enjoyed my exchange with them. Seeing them struggle to walk gave me new resolve to eat better. I like my original body and don't want two knee replacements like the woman.

the motel was just a couple of blocks down the street. Right across from an open Mexican food restaurant. Score again!

I pulled up out front. There were two people outside eating lunch. They both had white shirts on. Employees? They asked the typical questions about my bicycle. I parked the bike, got my ziplock baggie with my money and ID (that's not how you carry money on tour?) and started walking to the office. STOP! One woman holds her arm out and says STOP, loudly. I froze, deer in the headlights look. The other woman says not to get too close. OK - well you are sitting right next to the front door, what am I supposed to do here? I went on in to register. We did talk some more on my way back out. They were from Phoenix and were up here escaping the heat. As I bicycled around back to my room, they walked the same direction. It's a large motel complex. I wonder why they went and ate by the front door instead of at a table and chairs around back, if they didn't want to be around strangers? I understand the distance thing - but sitting by the front door isn't conducive to distance!

As I went around the back, I noted all of the grass and landscaping. How pretty. Grass has been quite limited in Arizona. Although we are at an altitude (7,000 feet), that grass is reasonable.

I expected Jacinto to be several hours behind me. He hadn't left yet when I left, and had almost twice the distance to cover. I wasn't in any hurry in my getting to town routine, thinking that I had plenty of time. Far sooner than I expected, there was Jacinto!

Jacinto had a good ride. With the road closure because of the forest fire, Jacinto says he had the road to himself all the way to Alpine. He did remember to pick up his panniers. I asked if his bike felt lots heavier with all of that extra weight. Jacinto replied that he thinks the bike handles better fully loaded. It's not that the bike shimmies or anything without weight. Jacinto says it feels more solid with weight. I asked Jacinto if he were happy to have weight, does he want some more? Jacinto just laughed.

We are in a town big enough for a Safeway. What a treat! It is .6 miles from here. Do I want to walk there? No, I do not! I can think of several luxury items I would like. What might that be? I'd like some artichoke dip. Craisins for my oatmeal . . . hmmm, what else can I think of that country stores don't carry?

Now we are deciding if we want to go to the Mexican food across the street or get a deli chicken from Safeway. Jacinto has finally eaten all of his leftovers. He needs a new supply!

I swear I have seen only cattle in this field that is visible from our bathroom window. This morning there are sheep! No cows in sight.

They must have had a bird problem above the lights. All of the exterior fixtures at the motel had wire above them.

Look at this huge shoulder, covered in debris. That has been the story all through Arizona.

I saw a few wild iris at the top of the climb. 8,500 feet. What I did not see at all today, and haven't seen, is aspen trees.

The town of Nutrioso is still up in the pines. Somewhere right after town, the pines disappeared and we were back in the cedars and junipers. I was surprised. One minute, here. Next minute, gone.

This is my first Subway this trip. It tasted great. I have to laugh at myself.

Our motel has both grass and flowers! What novelties.

Today's ride: 27 miles (43 km)
Total: 503 miles (810 km)

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