May 20, 2025
Day 9 Lincoln, NH, to Thetford, VT
May in NH is April in Boston
Average speed: 9.8 mph
The thing to realize is that this far north of Boston, the weather is at least a month behind. It felt like March in Boston here. Of course that’s not surprising, but with Memorial Day coming up, I thought some version of early summer would start to show. It hasn’t!
I got rolling about 7 am from the Hampton Inn in Lincoln (which was great), and it was cold - about 40 degrees. The first climb, the biggest, started just a couple of miles down the road. It was the Kinsman Notch climb (learned that from the Pjamm cycling site). Some lower grade entry then at 3 mile climb, typical profile of lower grade lower and higher grade as you get to the top. It was hard but manageable. But the rain and some wind began at the start of the ride. That made it annoying and more difficult. Fortunately, after yesterday, I layered up completely so was pretty well covered, but still could feel it.
After cresting, the downhill was not enjoyable, as it should be. Similar to yesterday but colder, the rain was hitting hard and I could feel the chill. I was hoping to find some type of civilization at the bottom but there was none. I would have paid $50 for a cup of Dunkin as the road leveled out.
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The level grade lasted a couple of miles before a left turn led to another climb, easier than the first, but also manageable. It was good to get the major climbs out of the way early. It frees up mental space to enjoy the the surrounding more.
The rain eased and I headed west on rolling hills, some with steep grades, to North Haverhill. There I spotted a gas station with a hole in the wall convenience store. It was a local gathering spot; there were no other places close to it, at least from where I was coming from. I went in and had the best cup of coffee and breakfast sandwich I ever had. Being in from the cold and resting comfortably inside at the small set of tables down back was heaven.
After North Haverill, the route went south along the Connecticut River. It was a pleasant ride, not too cold, nice scenery with farms all along the way. I have traveled this road before when I did the GML CW in 2021. The sites seemed familiar and distinctly remembered a couple. Seventeen miles down the Connecticut to River Road, passing through a quaint town center of Oxford, NH. A few more miles and you cross the bridge into Thetford, VT. But the fun does not stop there.
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After entering Thetford, I was only 2.5 miles from my Airbnb (there’s nowhere to stay here). Well, Thetford, from my experience, is known for three sharp peaks. I hit two of them on the way to my lodging. They were not easy, especially after 45 miles. They were steep but relatively short, so I struggled through them. Finally I get to the road I’m staying on, at the top of the second hill (the section of the Township is Thetford Hill) and sure enough, another hill to climb to get to the house. The hosts, Kim and Ken, were incredibly friendly and helpful and have a beautiful home. There was nowhere nearby to get food, and I was not biking back down the hill to find some place. I had a sandwich from the convenience store that would work in a pinch. But Ken offered to drive me to a grocery store to get food while he stopped at the hardware store nearby. He gave me a tour of Lake Fairlee.
Kim grew up here and moved back four years ago, primarily to help with her elderly mother. Ken is a retired Air Force pilot who now flies 777 for FedEx. A very interesting, engaging, and kind couple. I hope they visit Boston so I can return the hosting favor.
Tomorrow on to Rochester. It will be cold again, maybe light rain. After that I’ll have to manage around a Nor’easter coming in for Thursday and Friday.
Today's ride: 49 miles (79 km)
Total: 405 miles (652 km)
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