May 15, 2025
Day 5 Portland to Lewiston
Average Speed: 10.2 mph
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The split maps are due to Garmin issues so I had to reset the route (several times). There are few more miles missing.
I made it to Lewiston, which unfortunately is known for a recent mass shooting in 2023. It was a tragedy that has become too common in our country. It’s hard to imagine the grief of the families that lost loved ones and the potential the people that died would acheive. It also highlights the gap in understanding head injury, a silent disease, and the lack of mental health screening and treatment. But I’m sure this is a resilient community with a strong spirit that is recovering and maintaining its vibrancy. From what I experienced in my brief stay here, walking downtown and having dinner, it’s a great place to visit with a friendliness that rivals the Midwest!
I got moving at about 6:45 after a light breakfast at La Quinta - which btw was not bad. The hotel is located away from downtown Portland but very convenient to Hadlock Field, home of the Sea Dogs. I’m glad I booked it a few weeks ago since it was almost full last night. And the Sea Dogs were not even in town.
The weather was cool and there was fog and a light mist, so nice and cool and visibility was fine. There is a nice trail leading out of Portland that takes you over the Presumpscot Bay via Martins Point (I just looked at the map to get those names).
Once in Topsham over the bridge, I had to ride on State Route 196, which was the first 4 lane highway I had been on. The shoulder was pretty good, but the racing cars and trucks can be unsettling. I have to go back and check the route since I think I may have missed a trail, but don’t think so. I eventually got on a trail after a couple of miles which was a nice break.
From there, it was a mix of two lane highways and side roads. It was surprisingly hilly (over 3k ft for the day) and felt like the “rolling” hills of Vermont. The term “rolling hills” makes them sound gentle, but almost all the ones I encountered were 9-10%. I kept out of the granny gear, saving that “treat” for the Kancamagus.
Traveling more inland, the scenery consisted of pine forests, some tidal marshes, farms and neighborhoods. The views were still very nice, perhaps not as spectacular as the rocky shores, but without the huge mansions and development projects. The homes became more modest as I went north, Capes, Colonials and Ranches on well maintained and good looking lots. It’s more pleasurable to bike through real neighborhoods.
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It is nice to be on the Northern Tier. The Atlantic Coast route was a good tuneup and worked out some of the bugs. No real bike issues today.
Passing through Brunswick, I discovered that is where Bowdoin College is (should have known that). From there headed west to Lisbon, an old mill town. In the mid-19th century it was thriving with factories. Bikers owe thanks to Lisbon for their very nice bike trails.
From Lisbon to Lewiston, the ride was fine. The hills may have been a bit tougher, but manageable. It was annoying that I overshot my exit from the route to get to the Best Western in Lewiston (which is ok, not great). I had hoped to avoid more four lane highway travel, but a frustrating google maps exercise led me back up very, very steep hills and Route 196, but I made it. About a six mile “tax” because of my mistake.
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Tomorrow, a short day to Naples. This is a good thing since the forecast is rain.
Lastly, Ad is with me again today. She enjoyed a walk in Portland this morning and met me in Lewiston. It’s lifted my spirits to have her here, but she’s heading home tomorrow. I’ll be sad.
Today's ride: 61 miles (98 km)
Total: 245 miles (394 km)
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