June 9, 2025
Day 29 Pearl Beach to Detroit
End of the line….
Average speed: 10.2 mph
No farms today! The final day of the trip started in busy Pearl Harbor, the first of several high-speed highways, with shoulders that were wide but decrepit in many places. It was a slog for the first 20 miles, dealing with bumps and gravel and litter. When the roads became four lanes at 55 mph, in-lane travel was not possible, so onto the sidewalks, which worked. During a breakfast break at a McDonald’s, I re-strapped the front right pannier to the rack and that worked in keeping the bag on the bike for the rest of the ride.
It was tough to reflect during the ride, given how much I had to focus on the road, but after about mile 22, the route became much better. I started navigating tree-lined neighborhood roads with very nice ranch homes on well-maintained properties. It was a huge and welcomed shift. This continued for awhile, and after some brief returns to urban traffic, the ride became beautiful, heading through St. Clair Shores and Grosse Pointe (multiple villages). You could feel and see the wealth, especially compared to the first 20 miles.
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The sidewalks were a great bike route, passing couples strolling with their baby or other folks walking their dog - both well-behaved. You started to see more signs of Detroit.
I needed a bio-break (no farms) so asked a local corner shop owner, and he directed me to the Grosse Pointe city offices. I went there and had to go inside the police station to ask specifically where the restrooms were. They were very nice, and I found the spot.
More nice homes, more nice downtown villages. It felt like Wellesley, Mass. I passed through the last quaint village of Grosse Pointe, and then the entire surroundings changed pretty quickly. I was in Detroit. It’s a pretty stark contrast. A very wealthy community right on the edge of a struggling urban city. There wasn't any transition. Within less than a half mile, it went from sidewalk cafes to abandoned buildings. The wealth gap in our country is massive.
Back to riding city streets, but Detroit has a bike lane, separated in fact, for much of the way. The asphalt was crumbling and bumpy, but traffic really was not a concern. That commitment to bikes, in a city which does not have many resources, was nice to see. Moving along, I started to see recognizable sites in this historic city which has contributed so much to the country’s progress, culture, and national defense. (And they’re having good sports success right now).
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I had two big logistics items to take care of once I arrived in Detroit. One was to drop the bike off to ship back home (which was successful), and the other was to get a big duffel bag to stuff all the panniers in, so I would not incur exorbitant checked bag fees. My wife ordered a duffel from Amazon and had it shipped to an Amazon locker at a grocery store near my hotel. The route into Detroit took me through some trails in a park, which was confusing, and I think I got lost. As luck would have it, I came across the grocery store and tried out this process. Amazing! I stood in front of the lockers, outside of Lafayette Foods. The Amazon app knew where I was. I pushed a button on the app, and one of the many locker doors opened up, and there was the bag. She ordered the bag two days ago. What technology!
The highlight of the day was meeting up with a good friend, Kai-Yee, one of the smartest guys I know. As a TA at MIT, he once started a recitation session for undergrads by writing on the blackboard the lesson of the day: “Subtraction, addition’s tricky pal”. Of course, the diligent students took furious notes. Dinner in Corktown, a section of Detroit being rejuvenated, was great, and a beer afterwards at a self-serve brewery, which needs help from Amazon, was good too. He’s a great friend, and I very much appreciated him driving out from Big Blue country to catch up. His mother is a fan of my bird photos (www.chatgeo.photos), and she and her daughter gifted me some authentic Michigan treats for the flight home. That was very thoughtful.
The last paragraph has to be a big thank you to my wife, Adelina. She has been a supporter of this adventure from the early stages of planning. She did not say a word as I spent too much money upgrading my gear and electronics (some of which were not needed - sorry!). Her visits early on in the trip were a great boon to morale. And she has been “Command Central” for the trip logistics on where to stay and booking them, and just a daily ear for listening to my descriptions of road shoulders, traffic, farms, and everything else. Thank you, Ad. I love you. See you tomorrow.
Today's ride: 48 miles (77 km)
Total: 1,149 miles (1,849 km)
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