June 3, 2025
Day 23 Crystal Beach to Selkirk
Average speed: 11.2 mph
Today was a good day, riding along the northern shore of Lake Erie. I got moving at about 7 and stopped at the nearby McDonald's for a quick breakfast. From there is was back on the Friendship Trail, a great bike route which starts in Fort Erie and goes for about 20 miles west. Several folks were out early as well, walking their dogs, riding bikes, or just walking to enjoy the early morning sun and cool weather. The right front pannier issue was better after I attached a strap to at least stop it from falling off the bike.
The Friendship trail ends (begins) in Port Colburne, a fairly large city compared to the others I’ve seen along the route. The Welland Canal passes into Lake Erie here. It seems historic, and I assume has an industrial economic history, but I guessing due to its great location on the lake, tourism is the main draw today.
After this brief run through the city and some construction detours, the route went along the shore, along Lakeshore Road. Beautiful view of the lake on the left and very nice houses and cottages on the right. It was a very pleasurable stretch.
The route moved north away from the lake for a good 20 mile stretch. It began as farm country with rolling hills, not unlike New York. The speed limits were low, maybe 40, and surprisingly, cars were obeying it. That’s a difference from the US traffic!.
After the farmland, it was on the road to Danville, on a two-lane, higher speed road, again cars and trucks traveling the limit and being very respectful. That was important since there was only a rough gravel shoulder you couldn’t bike on, so I was forced to ride into the lane. This lasted for over 10 miles and became old after awhile, especially after the volume of cars and trucks picked up as I got closer to Danville.
A brief stop in Danville for a snack at Food Basics, a grocery store. In retrospect, I should have stocked up on food here, but assumed I would have another dose of civilization or a convenience store somewhere over the next 12 miles to the Airbnb. I was wrong. I ”mis-remembered” the map I reviewed last night.
Getting out of Danville was no picnic. I was stuck behind a recycling truck that was difficult to pass, but finally did. More high speed traffic with no shoulders for about three miles, then finally off to a country road connector which brought me back to Lakeshore Road. The pleasurable part of the ride resumed.
After couple of miles on Lakeshore, I noticed another bicycle tourist in my mirror who was catching up and I thought wanted to pass. Instead, she pulled alongside, and Lindsey and I biked together for probably the next 7 or so miles along Lakeshore. This turned out to be the highlight of the day. Lindsey is biking around the Great Lakes (or at least some of them); over 3,000 miles planned for her trip, and she’s on day four. Our respective routes along Lake Erie are staggered a bit, but I’m glad our paths connected for at least a short while. She’s a fisheries biologist, focusing on fresh waters, and the Great Lakes are a special place to her. We exchanged notes on our setup: she’s camping, I am not; she’s planning on 50 miles a day, as am I; we both use Ortlieb gear (it seems most people do); and we both have a Kona Sutra!. It’s a great bike; hers is newer, but has much of the same setup except mine has bar end shifters and hers are indexed on the brake levers. I arrived at my Airbnb right on Lakeshore Road, and she continued on to Port Dover. It was a great conversation, and I wish her all the best wishes for a good ride.
I settled into the Airbnb, and there is nothing around for dinner or to get food. The nearest place is a 30 minute bike ride. Once I’m off the bike for the day, I don’t like to get going again until morning. I should have planned the food better, but have plenty of reserves from prior convenience store stops stashed away. For now, it’s sitting and enjoying the serene setting of the shore of Lake Erie in front and the field in back (with lots of birds!!).
Today's ride: 49 miles (79 km)
Total: 916 miles (1,474 km)
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