June 2, 2025
Day 22 Lockport, NY, to Crystal Beach, Canada
Average speed: 10.2 mph
Today was a good day, maybe the best so far.
After a quick in-room “breakfast” at the Lockport Inn and Suites (which is a good place to stay btw) I was off riding at 7:15. First I had to navigate the busy highway of Lockport and the morning commuter traffic. After a couple of miles, onto to Mountain View road for 15 miles, the first eight on a gravel shoulder which was more difficult and bumpy, but safer with the high speed passing cars and trucks going by.
The bumpiness created some challenges with my right front pannier which kept falling off at each significant bump. It’s being doing that since Arlington but now more frequently. The issue is with the rack clips on the pannier which don’t close properly. I tried using a small bungee to try to keep it attached to the rack if the clips disengaged, but the bungee broke after the next bump. Tomorrow I’ll have a new fix. I have enough straps and cable ties to create a ropes course so will think of something.
After getting out of the range of Lockport, the scenery was back to farms. It’s been enlightening to me how large New York agriculture is. Who needs California!
The shoulder changed from gravel to asphalt, the hills were rolling, the weather was sunny and cool, and the scenery was varied. Biking on the Canalway the past two days was a nice change, but it was good to get back to the country rides.
Part of the route goes through the lands of the Tuscarora Nation, one of several Native-American tribes in New York. I’ve driven through Indian lands but never on bike. It’s to be in an area that is self-governed (and has been for 12,000 years). This tribe was originally located in North Carolina, but as with many other tribes, they were driven north by the English colonists and settled here and in Ontario.
About 18 miles in, the access roads to Canada emerged. The route goes over the Queenstown-Lewiston bridge, north of the falls. It’s a bit intimidating on a bike since there are no provisions for bikes or pedestrians. Essentially it’s riding the highway a bit, then over the bridge with no shoulder - you ride in the truck lane on the right. The trucks were great though and passed slowly with plenty of space.
Up to customs, in the car lane, no issues. No weapons, not leaving anything in the country and only staying for five days. After the customs check, it became unclear how to get where Garmin wanted me to go. I went though the toll booth to the highway, which was wrong. I asked a cop sitting in a car after the booth if he knew where the bike path was - he didn’t. I backtracked, went the opposite way towards the exit that led to a park area, squeezed through a barrier, then proceeded left up a road parallel to the park, but off the highway. Wrong again. RidewithGPS set me straight and got me to the Niagara bike path. Again, right or left? I chose left which was wrong again. Finally I got going, into Canada, in the correct direction, on the right route.
From here the show really took off. The ride rivaled or maybe surpassed the stretches along the coast of Maine. This time it was along a bike path that ran parallel to the Niagara River, with great views, and a climax of scenery at Niagara Falls. It’s a spectacular site and even this early in the season there were hundreds of tourists taking in the roaring waterfall (didn’t realize there are two separate sections). I’ve been here before, but I think traveling slowly on a bike and stopping frequently, I absorbed more of the grandeur.
As you get closer to the main attraction, things do start to look touristy.
And then when you see the falls, you know why so many people visit
After a stop at Starbucks (the first one I’ve seen since Portland, Maine) for a quick sandwich and Grande Frappuccino, I was moving past the main attraction. I had to navigate the crowds and ride around a dozen selfie shots (maybe should have asked for lessons), and made it onto the southern part of the Niagara Parkway. The enjoyment continued. The bike path was great, the homes to my right were impressive and mansion-like, and the river views to the left were beautiful. This continued for almost 20 miles and was mentally stimulating and relaxing at the same time.
Then I neared the Peace Bridge which takes you over to Buffalo. I passed this bridge, continued into Fort Erie, and headed further along the Lake Erie shore, staying in Canada. About 10 miles later I arrived at my destination - Crystal Beach and the Crystal Beach Motel.
Not much here and I’m the only one staying at the motel. It’s over a mile to the nearest “real” convenience store, and Fubo does not work in Canada, so I can’t watch the Red Sox. I don’t think I’ll be coming back here.
More miles along Lake Erie tomorrow.
Lastly, some local history about the Fighting Irish
Today's ride: 55 miles (89 km)
Total: 867 miles (1,395 km)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 6 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 0 |