June 1, 2025
Day 21 Brockport to Lockport
Average speed: 9.4 mph
Today’s theme was wind. Overall a good day, but extra work was needed just to keep a mediocre pace. It was cloudy and cool for the most part, and the sun came out for an hour, but the wind gusts and came and went throughout. The cost of wind is about 1-3 gears depending on the burst and in between you try to make up ground.
The start was a bit later than usual, about 8:30, since I decided to stay for breakfast at the B&B. Good choice. I’m usually up and out with something quick to eat, but since was it included in the room rate, I decided to stay and enjoy. Valerie was a great host and told me most of her business comes from folks riding the Erie Canalway.
The scenery was pretty similar to yesterday - long gravel stretches along the canal. Over the course of the day, I did see about a dozen touring cyclists coming the other way (with the wind!). Same process as in Maine. First a quick assessment if any of them wanted to stop while saying hi (none did), then we check out each other’s bag setup as we’re passing. No hits. Everyone was focused on getting to where they were going.
I’m learning first hand the importance of this canal and the whole New York State canal system to the growth of the state. In the early 19th century, Governor Clinton had a vision and changed the nature of this entire area, and perhaps the state. The Erie Canal and several others (e.g. Oswego, Champlain) created new trade routes for local farmers and merchants that dramatically increased their reach to the western parts of the country for their goods. The Eric Canal system generated new towns or scaled the existing towns along the route. Albion, Fairport, Middleport are examples of towns which transformed the area.
After about 17 miles, I came to Albion, which seemed to a significant source of civilization. A cup of coffee and a break from the wind were what I was after. I took the turn off the path and into the town. A very interesting village with several very impressive buildings that indicated how central this place once was. But that was then, and you could also see some of the older buildings housing retail shops with vacancies or in disrepair. Its prime had past, but still a community with a history and sites to see.
On the way out of Albion, on the opposite side of the canal, I met two old-timers (like me) filling their tourist boat with water. We got to talking and exchanged notes on what I was up to and them. They were Coast Guard retirees trying a new adventure with this tourist boat along the canal. They had a Boston connection from the Coast Guard, stationed at the base on Atlantic Ave near the North End. This was in the 70s when the North End of Boston was the hotbed of Mafia activity and Whitney Bulger was in his prime in South Boston. They had stories to tell.
Back on the trail, I passed several similar towns, maybe not as big, but ones that clearly had a history linked to the canal.
While I was approaching Medina (Med-eye-nah), I heard a popping noise and kept checking the panniers to make sure they were secured. I later discovered that I was approaching a gun range. I did not go into Medina, but based on what I saw on the outskirts, it was, and maybe still is, a town of significance along the canal. The Canalway path around the roaring river was is disrepair and required walking the bike over a short, rough cement stretch.
More pumping the pedals and finally arrived at the outskirts of Lockport. It’s a larger town than any I had passed in awhile. It’s a maintenance depot for the Canal and the locks here seem pretty complex (hence the name). I had the first climb of the day - short but steep - to get to street level. I noticed these large machines pumping water out of the canal into what looked like a large generator. A man walking his dogs told me it was a temporary set up to filter out the contaminants found in the Canal, probably remnants of the past.
The man and I started talking dogs and he had three Australian Shepard dogs. They seemed like a great little dog but high energy.
It took a bit to navigate to the motel, along busy roads, but made it. Within a mile ride I passed two 7-Elevens and three other convenience stores. It’s a palooza.
Canada tomorrow!!!
Today's ride: 44 miles (71 km)
Total: 812 miles (1,307 km)
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I binge read your blog over the weekend, after Adelina serendipitously crossed our Moms’ chat (planning our next outing), with details on your hotel accommodations. It was fun to witness Arlington Command Central in action! Adelina sent us this link after I asked about pictures of your ride, which I loved seeing - and I have been mesmerized by your thoughtful prose. Pedal on! Sending you positive thoughts, Ellie (Senior, not daughter)
1 day ago