Day 36: Grants Pass to Panther Flat campground

September 20, 2011

50F, calm, and sunny in the morning, now that I'm at only 900 feet elevation. I got on the road at 8:30. In less than 5 miles I was in Grants Pass, the largest town on the Umpqua-Crater-Rogue route. Fortunately the road has a wide shoulder. On the east side of town highway 99 ends and I continued west on US 199 which is 6 lanes for about a mile. I stopped at McDonald's for breakfast #2 and at Albertson's supermarket for groceries and cash. Overall, getting across Grants Pass was very easy.

Traffic remains heavy on US 199 leaving Grants Pass. Busier than any other road on the Umpqua-Crater-Rogue route, but still less traffic than US 101 on the coast. I stopped again at the interesting Wonder General Store.

Wonder General Store, between Grants Pass and Cave Junction.

Then the highway climbs to 1640 foot Hayes Hill summit which separates the Rogue river watershed from the Illinois river watershed. The Illinois valley is an interesting area. The environment is surprisingly arid considering how close it is to the ocean. It's in the rainshadow of the Klamath mountains that rise 5000 feet, much higher than most of the Coast range.

The Illinois valley is a refuge for extremists. Ultra right-wing survivalists cluster there, but also many environmentalist counterculture people. So I see a combination of organic farms, gun shops, etc. Culturally and geographically, the Illinois valley is very much a part of the mythical "State of Jefferson".

Summit between Grants Pass and Cave Junction.

This place has multiple huge signs with the same spelling.

The Illinois valley is noted for both left-wing tree-huggers and right-wing conspiracy-minded survivalists.

Highway 199 has an uphill trend through the Illinois valley. The river is quite small in September. But in spring the river is a popular whitewater paddling destination. Cave Junction is the largest town in the Illinois valley. Big enough to have 3 traffic lights and several motels.

The Illinois river is very small in late summer.

The last town in the Illinois valley is Obrien. After Obrien the road gently climbs a gap between the Klamath mountains to the northwest and the Siskiyou mountains to the southeast.

Obrien is the last town in Oregon on US 199.

During the climb I crossed the state line into California. But to me, I'm still in the State of Jefferson.

The California state line is about 2 miles before the summit.

The road crests at the exit of the Collier tunnel, at 2000 feet elevation. There is a very nice highway rest area at the summit.

The Collier tunnel is uphill when going south. The tunnel exit is the summit. 1-way traffic due to tunnel repairs.

After the Collier tunnel US 199 descends steadily to the Smith river through increasingly lush forest. I can tell I'm getting closer to the ocean. The Smith river is a popular recreation area for swimming, fishing, and paddling.

Lush forest on the descent to the Smith river.

I had intended to camp at the Patrick Creek campground which is across the highway from the historic Patrick Creek Lodge. But the campground closed early this year because of problems with the water system. I was in the mood for a restaurant meal, so I had dinner at the lodge. I looked at the menu prices before committing. $35 for a salad, salmon entree, one beer, tax, and tip.

After Patrick Creek lodge is an easy 6 miles downstream to the Panther Flat campground. It's on a bluff above the river, so it's kind of a long scramble to the river. It cost $15, but has nice facilities including showers. Bring lots of quarters for the shower.

The evening was pleasantly warm. I'm at only 450 feet elevation now. The weather was warm and sunny all day today. It definitely felt like summer with a high of 89F.

I need a rest after two consecutive 70 mile days...

Distance: 72.2 mi. (116 km)
Climbing: 2407 ft. (729 m)
Average Speed: 11.4 mph (18.2 km/h)

Today's ride: 72 miles (116 km)
Total: 1,836 miles (2,955 km)

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