Toward the end of the earth

August 9, 2018

Today I left the department of the Morbihan and entered Finistère, the end of the earth. Actually I rode a long looping route that took me into the interior of the Breton peninsula once again. As with just about any route in Brittany that is not a rail-trail or a canal path there was a lot of short climbs and short descents and not much flat. Mostly I wanted to stay off the busy roads and take in some bucolic scenery, and in that I was more or less successful.

I stopped for coffee in the village of Meslan. I was the only customer in the bar and I read the paper while the bartender and his wife started cleaning up for the noontime "rush". I wonder if all five bar stools ever fill up. Most of these country bars survive by selling lottery tickets and/or tobacco products or by serving a workman's lunch. This place did all three. About seven kilometers down the road is the much bigger town of Le Faouet. There is a weekly market here and it is held in a huge old market hall.

Le Faouet also boasts three cafes, two hotels, and several bars and restaurants. It was not nearly time for lunch, though so I pushed on in the direction of Quimperle.

A couple of kilometers out of Le Faouet I came upon St. George's chapel.

It was recently restored to its eleventh century splendor.

I'm somewhat surprised by the paucity of châteaux in Brittany. There are any number of chapels, but the castles seem to be mostly absent. This is quite unlike most of Northern France where often it seems there is one every five kilometers. Well, Iguess I'll have to be awed by churches instead.

The sculpted heads are thought to be of real people, but they are so weathered one wouldn't recognize them if the models were still alive.

I was beginning to worry that I might miss lunch as by now it was after one o'clock. But the road began a descent which didn't end until I was in the center of Quimperle. Right on the central square was a restaurant still serving. I got a table on the terrace, and ordered salad with hot goat cheese on toast and a marmite with fish and mixed veg. Both were delicious.

A long three kilometer climb got me out of the center of town and into the commercial districts. I was pretty tired, and could feel a nap coming on, so I called it quits for the day. After a nap, I walked around the stores for a bit, then decided on dinner in a steakhouse type restaurant. Not great like lunch, but filling.

Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 450 km (279 miles)

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