August 4, 2018
Into the medieval heart of Brittany
These old bones are getting too soft for this camping out business. I still love waking up in a tent, but actually climbing out of the sleeping bag, and contorting myself around to get into my clothes is not as easy as it was fourty years ago, or even ten years ago for that matter. Add to that the reduced bladder capacity that comes with age and that forces me to leave the tent in the night, and I can see an end to camping in the not too distant future. I sleep just fine, though, and I am not sorry to have brought the tent as it was the only shelter I could have found last night.
I got up early and walked to a bakery in the village for a chausson aux pommes an apple filled pastery which I ate with my morning coffee. Packing up after this light breakfast is a routine I have long ago mastered, so by eight thirty I was on the road for Redon and it's promise of a sporting goods store to help sort out my cycle problems.
The canal here is actually a natural river that is regulated by a series of dams and locks. Very few boats were on the water as I rode along, but there's were a lot of cycle tourers. The EuroVelo system is getting more popular every year, and that means that one rarely stops to trade stories anymore. People still wave or say bon jour so there is still a sort of comeraderie amongst cyclos.
And lo! Prayers were answered and spare parts were purchased and the world was a good place once again. Right next to the canal path was my favorite store, Decathlon. Not fancy, but fairly complete it carries the necessities of budget sports of all types.
Anxieties put to rest, I set off once again. In Melansac I stopped for a sandwich which went by the name of américain froid a fancy sobriquet for a ham, egg, lettuce and tomato sandwich with far too much mayonnaise on it. Why my countrymen think this is American, I do not know. I never saw anything of the kind when I lived in the states, but there you are. There are lots of things the Americans think are French, but are not, notably French fries, which are Belgian. Things for small minds to ponder? (Pace Karen).
A very short ride later and i reached my goal for the day, Rochefot-en-Terre. And wow. Double wow, even.
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And right in the middle of it all is the Hotel Pelican, where they had a room. The young lady at the desk said I could have a special price for the room with dinner and breakfast included. Would I like it? Well, I would. And so I took myself to the room, showered and promptly fell into a deep sleep. The meter thick walls provided enough cooling to make one forget that the thermometer outside was registering in the thirties. The hotel was bereft of wifi, and the thick stone walls reduced the mobile signal, but hell, didn't we used to get along without those things?
After my nap, I walked around the village, but it was so hot I took refuge in a bar for Perrier on two occasions. There really is a lot to see.
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Dinner was served at the usual hour of 7:30, and it was every bit as good as I had hoped. A first course of stuffed mackerel followed by sea bass with chocolate cake for dessert. No wine tonight for me though. The heat has me worried about dehydration. After retiring to my room I lay reading. Through the open window I could hear the kitchen below and the chef was reading the riot act to a supplier who had failed to deliver as promised. All quiet by ten thirty and I drifted off again .
Today's ride: 62 km (39 miles)
Total: 140 km (87 miles)
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5 years ago
Travelling solo I don't have anybody to crawl over. It would be different if Sue would ride with me, but alas that will not happen. And you are precisely right, ventilation can be a very good thing. Now truth be told, I am getting to the point that I am reluctant to replace perfectly good equipment just because it might be easier on me. Also I am too cheap. A fault I admit, but it goes with being French. Or so I am told. Actually, I really want a dome type tent instead of the tunnel type I have now. It would have saved me a lot of trouble in Iceland if I'd had a dome. And I could have the benefits of two doors. But I will probably use the current tent until I give up camping altogether. The number of days I have spent in the tent has gone down year by year, and I don't think it will ever rise to the pinnacles of my youth. Sigh. But, hey, getting old is still better than the alternative!
Cheers,
Keith
5 years ago
5 years ago